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I have a few Formbot kits, one with M8P. I'm currently installing Beacon, so it is apart while I remove the old, broken, wiring harness and replace with CAN.
But, I had no issues with the cfg for M8P/CB1 example, switching in my sensorless homing for the switches they replaced. Only issue I...
Looks cool, but the only hotends I've ever had any issues with have been from E3D...so I pass on them now; Revo, Titan Aero, V6.
Strangely, the V6 knockoffs have worked better than what they are copying, so I guess I'll wait for this to get cloned by a hotend mfg I've not had issues with...
Then...this might not be for you. The printer is always the project, for me, when building them. If I wanted the print to be the project, I'd buy a printer already made, ready to go. But, the printer is most definitely the project.
And you can strip the anodization off with lye, easiest with EZ Off with lye. Not the stuff without it. Wear gloves, long sleeves, and eyes if you do it outside. In your oven if you can't, since the over spray will help clean your oven if it needs it, my door windows usually have a coating on...
I would start with the beginning, for tuning. All the way back to extrusion multiplier. And tune it with PLA to make it easier, and quicker. Then tune per filament.
I use to use them a lot. That price hike has made it not worth it, for me. Plus they are always out of what I want, or the color changed too much.
I'll keep using all the other ABS, and if I ever dial in for ASA - that maybe.
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I had to mess with the sensitivity settings on mine, took a good while, but once it was done, it's done. So far. I'd still like to fine tune it a bit more, but it works.
The file location error is usually fixed by removing the home/pi and replacing it with ~/
Linux doesn't like those "static" calls, or however you want to refer to those links. Try going into a subfolder, and cd'ing to home/pi...you might find it doesn't know where that is as it thinks it is...
I bought some of this, as it seems too cheap not to try, at least.
Will be using it on my next build to test it out, or when I put back together my first 2.4 that I took apart to fix the snapped wires.
Are you positive that your bed is actually flat? And that there is nothing stuck to the sheet? I've had remnants of previous prints that I failed to see and remove that cause problems until I inspected closely and removed them, usually by using a green scrub pad, soap and water, and then alcohol.
Page 7 is what helped me go: AHA! (https://github.com/bigtreetech/U2C/blob/master/BIGTREETECH U2C V1.0&V1.1 User Manual.pdf)
Also, irrespective of which board you have: https://wiki.kb-3d.com/en/home/btt/voron/u2c_v2
Those two helped me tremendously. I wasn't understanding how it should go...
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