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We'd need a lot more information on what material, temp, speed, kind of fan used, etc etc to be able to help you here, but sure you can try slowing down to see if that affects it.
better than CFD or water dish tests is an actual print test, such as the Shuriken D85.
Chirpy has a good writeup on it.
https://github.com/chirpy2605/voron/tree/5937508fad2eead9a7e3a68b8d60f6e527e56548/general/Duct_Testing
the important thing to do on htis test is to get your print time under...
Mr. Jiggles,
sorry I didn't see this earlier. The issue is that the HF has a very small heatsink, so it really needs good airflow.
If you want to try HF again then I'd try upgrading your 4010 hotend fan to a fan like this one from Orion...
I recommend Delta's BFB0524HH fan. Alternately Fabreeko and West3D have high pressure 5015's available and they reportedly work well, but may be a bit more noise than you want.
The tricky part to tap isn't the moving up and down...its preventing it from moving in X and Y.
MGN7 didn't work for me. On a different printer in a different toolhead maybe it would, I don't know.
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