Recent content by ChrisNeal

And more specific: which pins to use are here. I'm glad you asked because I have a SFS 2.0 on the way

BTT Github - Manual for SFS 2.0

I don't have the experience to say because I've only used the 2.4 and that's been only for test prints like benchy boats so far. I have been looking wistfully toward the holding power of Z-screws on the Trident because when power's off for the 2.4... the 4 belts can slide around dropping 1 or...

Have you also tried Z_Endstop_Calibrate ? (Disclaimer) I bungled through all this to get my 2.4 running very recently so I'm not fluent, but I didn't see this in your description above. Not sure it's relevant to your situation...

I think you're right: you'll be happier with a bigger build area. For me assembling v2.4 hardware was easy, then learning configs and Pi and MCU etc has been the slow/difficult part. I doubt that would have been any different for me with any of the Klipper model printers. Wiring and getting...

Thanks :)

I'd read 2.42 somewhere and thought it was the same as V2.4 R2, so I started using that in my head. Incorrect? <edited to fix>

About 6 weeks ago I received most of the parts for my V2.4 R2. I used the West3d self source configurator for most of this, while other parts were purchased from DFH, Fabreeko, and KB3D. (Mouser for the Pi) Parts list + the first thing that comes to mind about each item...

I was working through similar error msgs last night while trying to get my V2.42 with a Biqu Microprobe set up. For me the answer was, partially at least, that my Z endstop stood up about 10 mm above the bed, so my -8 wasn't enough for the min. I changed it to -18 temporarily and it worked.

I have a Pi4B with 4gb. I've also read what you're saying about the Pi potentially not getting enough juice. My thought was maybe the 350W PSU that I installed might clean up the power enough to make for a reliable 5V. Just a few minutes ago I tried building a firmware.bin to use PD5/PD6...

Sanity: I'd read in a few places when I was planning this build that I could forego the 5V PSU. So maybe in saving a few measely dollars I went and cost myself some headaches. Originally I tried USB-C to USB-C, but the Pi was not getting any power. So I tried USB-C (Octopus) to USB-A (Pi)...

I'm thinking the layer height is tall enough to push the center of the nozzle too far off the edge for the extruded material to get squashed into a flat shape... so any squashing just pushes the bulk of melted material off into space? Would any extruder with a round nozzle make a difference...

And... I thought I'd figured out a workaround, a way to use a different USB port. Nope. All I was getting from the Octopus USB-A was power for the PI. I was excited for a few minutes because I'm new to all this and "Wow... there's the Mainsail logo!" Talking to the OS through my notebook...

Thanks for posting this. Last night I flashed my Octopus twice and both times the firmware.bin file got renamed to .cur, but the serial/by-id command wouldn't produce. All this was after being frustrated with USB-C not powerring my PI 4B and trying 3 different cables, then finally getting...

It's good to know wires through a chain can last 1700 hrs. I'm looking at a pile of 2.4 parts while considering a flood of options/mods from the Voron community. This thread makes me think I should just stick with the original plan of using a chain and full wiring kit, instead of going for...