Recent content by claudermilk

Yeah, that surface looks rough. My uncoated ones don't look like that at all. That picture makes me suspect the lead screw is acting like sandpaper and grinding down the nuts. I'd send that in to LDO and see what they have to say, looks like bad parts to me.

The fiberglass-sheathed wire is indeed a PITA to deal with. Fortunately I've only had to mess with that once (an older, bad Revo thermistor lead). I used my Iwiss strippers to get it as good as I could, then careful use of the side-cutters to clean up the bits of frayed fiberglass after. It...

Quick update here. I had some time (and motivation) to take the toolhead apart again and re-do the bad nozzle LED jumpers. Swapped out the oversized, badly-soldered wires for smaller 30AWG with nice, clean joints. Now all three LEDs light up as expected. I had to tweak my little Python script...

Have you put a multimeter on the power supply yet to verify its output?

I self-sourced my Trident back when the BOM-in-a-box kits were just beginning to come out (and were of questionable quality). I went that route partly because of that, and partly to spread out the costs. What I did do though was to pay attention to the vendors' free shipping level and try to...

I can only think there's something mechanically off there. My LDO V0.2 is at about 230 hours, and the leadscrew is clean. With the motor off, I can easily move the bed up and down.

Well...I'm running a Nevermore too. I doubt that's the issue. Have you tried just running the POM nut up and down the length of the lead screw without anything attached? Does it run the length of the thread smoothly?

Have you done the Ellis tuning?

The lock nuts should actually be loose. That's why they are lock nuts. Tighten them until they are just short of beginning to grab the POM nut. There should be side-to-side movement, but not up-and-down. If they are locked in, it causes binding and that could be why you are seeing the grinding...

That's probably a much more elegant solution than my kludged-together macros. I just use the stock electronics chamber fans and turn them on and off based on the Pi's reported temperature. Which is of course what that temperature_fan definition does but using Klipper to manage it. I'm going to...

I've had a Nevermore in my Trident for forever (the printer is nearing 3000 hours print time, lots of it ABS with Nevermore running). As far as I can tell my OG POM nuts are fine. I self-sourced the printer and have the LDO leadscrew motor kit, but before they started putting the coating on.

I just printed the SB version of Galileo2 and plugged it right on to my Tap-equipped tool head with no real issues. The only thing is the cable chain mount moves a bit and can make the final wire harness reach a bit tight.

That would be my suggestion. I just ran into the no touch issue after doing an update on my Trident. That simple config change they have (a single character) fixed it. FYI, I'm using the DSI WaveShare 4.3"

Yep, probe_calibrate even with a Tap. Once it's dialed in, you should get perfect first layers every time after that.

I just swapped my V0.2 to a Dragon Burner + G2SA and I'm really liking it. No, it isn't as pretty as the Stealthburner, but it's doing the job I needed on that printer. I'm perfectly happy with the regular SB on the Trident, and yes, it's pretty easy to work on. The Dragon Burner is more...