Recent content by claudermilk

I'd be in the same boat except I have space limitations. Heck, I have an Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra sitting in a corner because I haven't cleared space to set it up safely yet.

Well, since I started with a Trident and added a V0.2, a V2.4 is the obvious next move for me. Not sure if I'd go with another 250 or move to 300. I might tinker with one of the popular non-Stealthburner tool heads and the Beacon probe though I've been happy with the Stealthburner/Tap combo on...

If by Revo issue you mean the initial production run thermistor failures, that is long resolved. I had a failed one that E3D quickly replaced. I've got 3 printers with Revos and they have been solid for me.

If it were me, not being able to readily find the part to buy would prompt a re-think of which hotend to get. I want support availability & if (when) something breaks, the ability to obtain replacements.

Stealthburner can print PLA just fine. My 3 (4?) year old Trident is still running Stealthburner with a Revo hotend and it's printed spools and spools of PLA. It's got about 4400 hours on it (shocked both Steve and Maks with that 😄) and over half of it is PLA. I also don't run super fast, I...

Ugh, that sucks. I think you are starting from scratch, so follow the setup help pages. Then go and get your Github backup set up so this won't happen again.

If you can get the Neptune enclosed you should be able to print ABS. I printed up my Trident 250 on my Prusa Mini+; I kept the shipping box and put that over it. The only parts I had any problem with was the feet since they are bigger chunks of plastic; adding a big brim resolved that and they...

This is a Voltron. What you have looks like a V2.4 variant. :LOL:

Hello (again, ;) ). If you do decide to go with a Voron build be sure to also jump on the Discord server. For me, old school forums are easier to deal with & find older posts. Discord is good for really quick assistance with a question or problem--but it's like drinking from a fire hose sometimes.

Sure enough, that fixed it on my V0.2. Trident is on a print job, so I'll update there later. Thanks for the tip.

Yeah, it looks like it might be broken. I've had the homing effect working on my Trident and V0.2 for a while now. Just homed the V0.2 and no LED indication, so the effect didn't work. The definition posted above looks correct.

Yeah, that sounds like Klicky. You have to dock and attach the Klicky switch module in the dock wherever you positioned it along the edge of the bed. Tap does away with that.

I dunno, to some extent (saving electrical/electronics) cars--and 3d printers--are kind of like adult Legos. 😁 (and now we've completely hijacked this thread)

So basically an automotive equivalent of a Voron. :p Nice. So...whatcha putting in it?

Make the print_start macro in Klipper. Then you have to call that macro in the slicer Start GCode field. That's where you will pass the parameters like bed and nozzle temperature. For example, my slicer has in start g-code (I use Orca): PRINT_START BED=[first_layer_bed_temperature]...