Recent content by claudermilk

I was thinking the same as @Sanity Agathion. Trident with E3D Revo high temp. There are now hardened nozzles available in the Revo ecosystem.

Have you tried drying the PETG? It's notorious for liking to absorb water & getting really stringy.

You need 6. A, B, 3x Z, and the extruder. The Z steppers all need to be on individual channels for bed leveling.

Did you look here? https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Trident/tree/main/Drawings_DXFs/Build_Plate

Stealthburner is the entire tool head. The "standard" extruder is Clockwork2. Those themselves do not include an accelerometer, but the Clockwork2 does have a mount point for the typical add-on PCB. Some sensors like the Beacon (I believe) and some tool head boards include an accelerometer in...

At that size, the 2.4 is probably the better option. The Trident uses leadscrews for bed movement, so if I recall is typically a 350x350 XY and 250 Z. You also have that really big, heavy bed sitting at the top of the printer; the 2.4 with the static bed on the bottom will be more stable.

What do the logs say? There should be error messages that point you towards what the issue is.

Revos just use standard Molex Micro-Fit connectors. So mating connectors for the Revo end, then whatever you need to connect the other end. I get the aversion to dealing with the fiberglass. I just had to re-terminate my Revo because the thermistor wires wore out from repeated sessions of...

You could try entering the actual directory name. "~" is just shorthand for the home directory, so you could enter /home/pi instead.

Just doing extensions you don't need to mess with the fiberglass braided cable, Just use what you do on the rest of the printer. The fiberglass is really for the part right by the heater core. I have a Prusa Mini+ upgraded with a Revo and it needed an extension to plug in to the stock printer...

I'd start with checking your wiring. I had a situation where my extruder motor stopped responding reliably & I thought the same thing--maybe a bad motor. Further investigation revealed a broken wire, and after replacing the gantry harness it's been working solid ever since (well, ok, I later...

Have you tried the process I outlined above?

Sounds like a solid printer.

It's a solid option. I'm not familiar with the new Core One, but I did start my 3D printing journey with a Prusa Mini+ kit. I learned a ton on that printer & it launched my move to Voron. Prusa isn't the cheapest, but it's a good line of printers with excellent support.

Put TURN_OFF_HEATERS in your print_end macro. https://www.klipper3d.org/G-Codes.html#turn_off_heaters