Recent content by claudermilk

With my Galileo2 and Revo with HF nozzle I still just have print_end retract 18mm at the end of a job. Filament just pulls out every time.

For Voron questions, here and the Discord would be my primary places to ask. The Trident and V2.4 are largely similar; in the config the main difference would be the Z axis definitions. You could compare the two from a board with both definitions. For the Orbiter, on a Voron with a...

A couple of things from that last batch of posts. Whether you have the stock Clockwork 2 or the Galileo 2 extruder, that makes zero difference to what version of Cartographer you need. The extruder sits on top of the tool head (and again, the Galileo 2 is a straight plug-in swap). The...

Yes, it is a Galileo 2. It is a straight plug-in swap to replace the stock Clockwork 2. You just need to print 4 parts for it, everything else is included in the kit. I can't comment on CAN--I'm still on now "old school" toolhead and breakout boards with cable chains. It works, so I have no...

FYI, in all that wall of text I noticed a mention of Stealthburner vs Galileo. Be aware the Stealthburner is the entire tool head. In that is the stock Clockwork 2 extruder. Galileo 2 as an extruder, it can swap into the Stealthburner in place of the Clockwork 2. You just have to print up the SB...

Link doesn't work, but based on the URL it's from 2022. If my memory serves (and that's debatable :LOL: ), Pis were still scarce then. The easiest IMHO would be an Octopus and Pi 3 or 4; there's tons of Vorons on that combo so lots of support.

What site is recommending an Orange Pi5? That's an oddball clone that was mainly used a bunch when actual Raspberry Pis were scarce. Going with a true Raspberry Pi will be an easier path. I have a Pi 4 2GB on the Trident and it's overkill and a 3B on the V0.2 because I couldn't get a Zero 2W...

Soon(tm). ;) Sounds like there's been some...interesting...challenges to overcome with that monster.

I have a 0.15 that I've used. It is slow--but that is a tiny holes, so you have to slow way down to not overshoot the ability to squeeze plastic out. I've also run into issues trying to get good overhangs out of it. I've run the nozzle on both a Trident with Stealthburner and a V0.2 with Dragon...

I have Revos on all my printers. After the initial release thermistor issues were resolved, they have been workhorses. It's not the fastest, but for me it's just worked. I don't know how well an Ali knockoff compares to a genuine E3D one though.

The latch has been tweaked over revisions. I wonder if the newly-printed latch isn't the same revision as the rest of the extruder.

I was going to say the same thing. Just pop the pins out of the 2-position shell and put them in a 3-position shell. Done.

If it were me, I'd depin it and put those in a proper 3-pin connector. It's not that hard and a good skill to have (you'll need it).

What are the part numbers for the extrusions? They will look very similar to each other. The rest of the BOM shouldn't change from a size change.

Yeah, we "olds" get to use Discord too. :p Sometimes the Voron one can feel like trying to drink from a firehose, but it is loaded with knowledgeable, helpful people.