Recent content by claudermilk

I'll jump in as a less of a tinkerer and more of someone wanting a usable tool. Vorons do require more up front effort and learning, and there will be tweaking, tinkering, and fiddling at first. I had plenty. But I now have a functional Trident and V0.2. The Trident is over 4500 hours printing...

Just take it one step at a time. Before you know it you'll have a printer sitting there where there was just a hug, intimidating pile of parts. ;) Squaring the frame with a tape measure is good enough. As long as it's within a mm you're good. On the Trident, the extrusions to be as precise as...

Taking a quick look, I would suspect it's complaining about the line cs_pin: scanner:PA3 in the adxl345 section. Which leads to the scanner section & the canbus definition. I'm not familiar with canbus setups, so that's as far as I can point. My guess is it isn't seeing the canbus.

I recently had to switch my Trident over to sensorless (X switch finally died). I just followed the instructions on t he Voron docs site. The only setting I had to tweak was driver_SGTHRS. I have no min, max, or stallguard set. Just tweaked the mentioned setting until I got a good repeatable...

It takes a bit of study to figure out the settings. Definitely spend some time going through to docs: https://github.com/julianschill/klipper-led_effect/blob/master/docs/LED_Effect.md Essentially you have the [led_effect <name>] block to define the actual effect to do--that's all covered in the...

Yes, that's what my graphs looked like when the heater core or thermistor failed.

The way I have it set up is a 3 step process: 1. define the LED effect. 2. Define a simple macro to turn on that effect. 3. Call that macro from within the function macro. So for example, when running a bed level I have t he following for LED effects: [led_effect nozzle_homing] leds...

That looks like a failed heater core. I ran into that in my first Revo from the first batch shipped. They replaced the heater core and it's been solid ever since.

Trident would be an easier overall build. I started there and built a V0.2 later. Getting the bed leveled on the V0.2 was a pain, but once set you shouldn't need to touch it again.

I built my V0 at the 0.2 spec so I can't really answer the first question. The second should be relatively easy. Go over this documentation page and follow the instructions: https://docs.vorondesign.com/tuning/sensorless.html. I built my V0.2 with sensorless and just went through the linked...

I'd be in the same boat except I have space limitations. Heck, I have an Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra sitting in a corner because I haven't cleared space to set it up safely yet.

Well, since I started with a Trident and added a V0.2, a V2.4 is the obvious next move for me. Not sure if I'd go with another 250 or move to 300. I might tinker with one of the popular non-Stealthburner tool heads and the Beacon probe though I've been happy with the Stealthburner/Tap combo on...

If by Revo issue you mean the initial production run thermistor failures, that is long resolved. I had a failed one that E3D quickly replaced. I've got 3 printers with Revos and they have been solid for me.

If it were me, not being able to readily find the part to buy would prompt a re-think of which hotend to get. I want support availability & if (when) something breaks, the ability to obtain replacements.

Stealthburner can print PLA just fine. My 3 (4?) year old Trident is still running Stealthburner with a Revo hotend and it's printed spools and spools of PLA. It's got about 4400 hours on it (shocked both Steve and Maks with that 😄) and over half of it is PLA. I also don't run super fast, I...