Recent content by claudermilk

Yeah, it looks like it might be broken. I've had the homing effect working on my Trident and V0.2 for a while now. Just homed the V0.2 and no LED indication, so the effect didn't work. The definition posted above looks correct.

Yeah, that sounds like Klicky. You have to dock and attach the Klicky switch module in the dock wherever you positioned it along the edge of the bed. Tap does away with that.

I dunno, to some extent (saving electrical/electronics) cars--and 3d printers--are kind of like adult Legos. 😁 (and now we've completely hijacked this thread)

So basically an automotive equivalent of a Voron. :p Nice. So...whatcha putting in it?

Make the print_start macro in Klipper. Then you have to call that macro in the slicer Start GCode field. That's where you will pass the parameters like bed and nozzle temperature. For example, my slicer has in start g-code (I use Orca): PRINT_START BED=[first_layer_bed_temperature]...

Well, that's jumping i at the deep end! This is the place to get help and advice. Also go to the Discord server--not everyone there comes over here to the forum.

This has been a useful thread to read to keep my curiosity on the pz probe under control. Sticking with the dead-reliable Tap for now.

Looks good to me. You will probably tweak the pressure_advance once you get the printer built and run through the Ellis tuning guide, but that is a good starting point.

With my Galileo2 and Revo with HF nozzle I still just have print_end retract 18mm at the end of a job. Filament just pulls out every time.

For Voron questions, here and the Discord would be my primary places to ask. The Trident and V2.4 are largely similar; in the config the main difference would be the Z axis definitions. You could compare the two from a board with both definitions. For the Orbiter, on a Voron with a...

A couple of things from that last batch of posts. Whether you have the stock Clockwork 2 or the Galileo 2 extruder, that makes zero difference to what version of Cartographer you need. The extruder sits on top of the tool head (and again, the Galileo 2 is a straight plug-in swap). The...

Yes, it is a Galileo 2. It is a straight plug-in swap to replace the stock Clockwork 2. You just need to print 4 parts for it, everything else is included in the kit. I can't comment on CAN--I'm still on now "old school" toolhead and breakout boards with cable chains. It works, so I have no...

FYI, in all that wall of text I noticed a mention of Stealthburner vs Galileo. Be aware the Stealthburner is the entire tool head. In that is the stock Clockwork 2 extruder. Galileo 2 as an extruder, it can swap into the Stealthburner in place of the Clockwork 2. You just have to print up the SB...

Link doesn't work, but based on the URL it's from 2022. If my memory serves (and that's debatable :LOL: ), Pis were still scarce then. The easiest IMHO would be an Octopus and Pi 3 or 4; there's tons of Vorons on that combo so lots of support.

What site is recommending an Orange Pi5? That's an oddball clone that was mainly used a bunch when actual Raspberry Pis were scarce. Going with a true Raspberry Pi will be an easier path. I have a Pi 4 2GB on the Trident and it's overkill and a 3B on the V0.2 because I couldn't get a Zero 2W...