Recent content by d4h

I ran into a couple of issues. Thankfully, they are sorted. X, Y homing had stopped working. The toolhead would try to move and make a grinding sound. I eliminated the potential software issues by rechecking the X, Y stepper printer configuration and the trying to tune the sensorless homing...

On to the FIRST PRINT. I had already done the printer settings for Voron 350, material setting eSUN PLA+ white filament, sliced the Voron cube from Cura and upload the file to the printer. I fired the print. Klipper couldn’t find the START_PRINT macro! I had missed putting it in the printer...

I opened up the toolhead as I anyway had to perform another modification to the StealthBurner. The filament feeder PTFE tube was not very secure with the existing arrangement. I put a M6 heat set inset on top and screwed a PC4-M6 Pneumatic Connector to secure the 4mm PTFE tube (pics here)...

This is where I ended up for the PTFE coupler on top of the Stealthburner. All that scraping that I had previously done wasn't good enough for holding the 4mm PTFE tube. I fixed a M6 brass heat set inset top and screwed a PC4-M6 Pneumatic Connector to secure the PTFE tube feeding the filament...

I had a look at Cura and the Slic3r family of slicers. Based on the development support and feature support, Cura and Orca are best bets. From the initial look, Cura is is definitely looks more beginner friendly. Orca seems to have more features for printer and filament tuning. User interface...

Thanks for the pointer @sanketss84. I'll checkout Orca. Cura: I was able to set it up, connect to the printer and transfer the sliced Voron cube to the printer. SuperSlicer: Doesn't install on my Macbook. I don't want to hack around to get to work when other options are available. Orca...

Moving on to next step of SLICER SETUP. Of the two popular slicers: Cura and SuperSlicer. Cura is recommended as more beginer friendly. Hence, Cura is what I'll be installing. This is going to be a new topic for rampup for me. I've downloaded it and will need to figure out the profile parameters.

I was able to complete the rest of Initial Startup Checks. #Verification StepStatusRemarks 11PID Tune Bed & Hotend✅PID tuning of hot bed: 1. Moved nozzle to the center of the bed and 10mm above the bed surface using using G90 followed by G1 X175 Y175 Z10. 2. Performed the PID calibration...

I ran a few more startup checks. X, Y and Z kinematics are checked out now. #Verification StepStatusRemarks 7Bed Locating⛔Not required as the build uses Voron TAP V2. There is no Z endstop. 8Define 0,0 Point✅Homed X and Y axes using G28 X Y. I used the Mainsail control to move the nozzle...

I felt that the umbilical that I made by running a piano wire along side BTT CAN cable was a bit too stiff. I made an alternative umbilical by pushing 4 wires and a filament through a PTFE tube. 2x 20AWG PTFE wires for 24V power 2x 24AWG(twisted) PTFE wires for CANbus signals 1x 1.75mm filament...

Thanks your your encouragement @sanketss84. Your posts have gotten me started me started on this journey. I've been tied up with work. Hence, not much progress on the build. Also, I wanted to re-crimp the CAN bus umbilical. I think the Molex Micro-fit 3.0 female crimps that I have are not meant...

I've started the "INITIAL STARTUP CHECKS" according to the Voron documentation. I'm using the Mainsail UI for the verification steps. #Verification StepStatusRemarks 1Verify printer.cfg✅The only real error I had after correcting the syntax parsing errors with the printer configuration was...

I've rigged up an emergency stop switch using components bought from Amazon. Emergency Stop Switch Push Button: The top is press fitted to rest of the body. I pried open the top using a thin screw driver head. Extension Cord PG7 Cable Glands 18 AWG 2 core electrical cable - 1 meter: Bought from...

It's been a slow but steady progress so far. I completed the heavily modified "VORON STEALTHBURNER" assembly manual. As I had started out, StealthBurner assembly was the one I was least comfortable with. So had I had modified the it to have as much pre-assembled components as possible. Also, I...

I disassembled everything till I had only the printed part with hole on top. I wrestled with it and even greased it with a silicon grease. Nothing worked. I had a look at corresponding hole on the Orbiter 2.0. It looked much larger than the the one on the printed part. I'm not sure whether it's...