Recent content by Dutchronnie

Thanks for your help, 3dCase it definitely made a difference. The print quality is now better at higher speeds. The Voron’s speed is now on par with the Bambu Lab X1C. This improvement came after I copied the speed settings from the Bambu Lab into orcaslicer for the Voron. It’s now clear to me...

I made a few modifications to the umbilical, and that resulted in a better X graph—the second peak has now almost disappeared. with the Test-Speed macro on Ellis tuning site, I found the optimal speed settings: Velocity = 375 and Acceleration = 23000. But I believe these are the maximum...

That’s indeed the tension meter I’m using as well. On Discord, this meter is recommended because it’s said to give more accurate results than an app. I also take multiple measurements, and after each one, I move the toolhead in all directions. In the end, the adjustments are only a matter of...

I have the belt tension and it was a litlle bit off, i adjusted this a little bit and that give me this graphs. It looks like the peak on the X is a little bit bigger.

I find this a difficult topic; I’ve spent a lot of time on the belt tension, and I can hardly get it any better. I’m using a tension meter. I’ll take another look at it, but so far I haven’t been able to find what’s causing that second peak in the graph. The speed on the bambu is close to the 200

Yes i did resoance test, i think they look good. But maybe it are the settings in Orcaslicer that are not good.

Lately, I’ve made the following upgrades to the Voron 2.4: I replaced the TAP with the Cartographer sensor and swapped out the extruder for an Orbiter. These upgrades have definitely helped improve the Voron, but I still can’t get it as fast as the Bambulab X1C. However, I value print quality...

I have just installed a cartographer and removed the TAP, I hope this mod gives better resonances graphs. Not tested yet because i am still struggling with the bed-mesh. Because i had to remove the TAP i thought this is the moment to also install the Beefy front idlers but i noticed that when i...

Hello, first I wish a very happy 2025 for everyone. I was asking myself what can i do to improve the print quality and/or speed of my voron 2.4. This is the hardware setup i have now: Voron 2.4 300x300 LDO Kit Stealthburner CW2 Canbus BTT SB2209 CAN V1.0 (RP2040) + U2C V2.1 Umbilical together...

Thanks, i think that the best is to install from scratch. Also the backup to the github is a good idea, i already started to setup.

I have a good working voron 2.4 with a raspberry pi 3, i do have sometimes undervoltage issues. I do have a raspberry pi 4, so i want the pi 4 in the voron.. What is the best way to do this, without haveing to install klipper and al the add-ons again. Can i put the original sd card in the...

I have also a chaotic lab tap V2,. I have read about the sensoless homing, but i also understand that some people have a lot of trouble with sensorless homing , so i decided to install the can system first with an x and y endstop, when it is al woring then i can try the sensorles homing. i also...

Of course i did that to0, but i see many different solutions, with and without z chain, umbilical to gantry, umbilical to back panel, i was wondering what is the best solution for all this. When the umbilical is attached to the gantry, is it then possible to remove the z chain, or is that...

Sure, here's the translated text in English: I plan to convert my Voron 2.4 LDO kit to a CAN bus version. I bought the BTT SB2209 (RP2040). Initially, I wanted to connect it directly to the Octopus 1.1, but I read that many people had problems with that. So I also bought the U2C. But now I am...

Thanks, i know this video, but in the video are the belts not on the printer. Is it possible to derack the printer with belts, stealthburner etc. attached ?