Recent content by Dutchronnie

I have the belt tension and it was a litlle bit off, i adjusted this a little bit and that give me this graphs. It looks like the peak on the X is a little bit bigger.

I find this a difficult topic; I’ve spent a lot of time on the belt tension, and I can hardly get it any better. I’m using a tension meter. I’ll take another look at it, but so far I haven’t been able to find what’s causing that second peak in the graph. The speed on the bambu is close to the 200

Yes i did resoance test, i think they look good. But maybe it are the settings in Orcaslicer that are not good.

Lately, I’ve made the following upgrades to the Voron 2.4: I replaced the TAP with the Cartographer sensor and swapped out the extruder for an Orbiter. These upgrades have definitely helped improve the Voron, but I still can’t get it as fast as the Bambulab X1C. However, I value print quality...

I have just installed a cartographer and removed the TAP, I hope this mod gives better resonances graphs. Not tested yet because i am still struggling with the bed-mesh. Because i had to remove the TAP i thought this is the moment to also install the Beefy front idlers but i noticed that when i...

Hello, first I wish a very happy 2025 for everyone. I was asking myself what can i do to improve the print quality and/or speed of my voron 2.4. This is the hardware setup i have now: Voron 2.4 300x300 LDO Kit Stealthburner CW2 Canbus BTT SB2209 CAN V1.0 (RP2040) + U2C V2.1 Umbilical together...

Thanks, i think that the best is to install from scratch. Also the backup to the github is a good idea, i already started to setup.

I have a good working voron 2.4 with a raspberry pi 3, i do have sometimes undervoltage issues. I do have a raspberry pi 4, so i want the pi 4 in the voron.. What is the best way to do this, without haveing to install klipper and al the add-ons again. Can i put the original sd card in the...

I have also a chaotic lab tap V2,. I have read about the sensoless homing, but i also understand that some people have a lot of trouble with sensorless homing , so i decided to install the can system first with an x and y endstop, when it is al woring then i can try the sensorles homing. i also...

Of course i did that to0, but i see many different solutions, with and without z chain, umbilical to gantry, umbilical to back panel, i was wondering what is the best solution for all this. When the umbilical is attached to the gantry, is it then possible to remove the z chain, or is that...

Sure, here's the translated text in English: I plan to convert my Voron 2.4 LDO kit to a CAN bus version. I bought the BTT SB2209 (RP2040). Initially, I wanted to connect it directly to the Octopus 1.1, but I read that many people had problems with that. So I also bought the U2C. But now I am...

Thanks, i know this video, but in the video are the belts not on the printer. Is it possible to derack the printer with belts, stealthburner etc. attached ?

I have completely finished my voron 2.4, and is printing. But it looks like i have some problems with the A/B belts. Maybe is the problem in the gantry. Can i check and adjust the de-racking with a full assembled printer? Or do i have to dissemble the complete gantry? And what is the best way to...

I see also a small gap, when i tighten the upper bolts my gap is the same as you have, but when i loosen the upper bolts the gap is almost 10mm. the two screws squeeze them together, and i don't know if that is allowed. in my opinion they have just to fit and the screws are only to secure the parts.

Your conclusions on the TAP are also mine. I think this is the cable door cover you are searching for: cable_cover_pcb_with_thermistor.stl After i assembled the Stealthburner cover over the extruder and hotendblock i noticed a gap between the cover and extruder block. Did you have the same?