Recent content by egar

Perhaps it is a faulty thermistor in your Trident. That would support why you don't see the issue when you move your hot end to the 2.4. I had a opposite problem on my 2.4 where the hot end temp would spike low and cause an error. The filament being extruded looked fine -- it would have not...

Sorry, I missed it in your original post that you did look at the STEP file from the GitHub. I checked the files there and both the STEP and Fusion360 files are the 250 mm versions.

They are available in STEP format from the Voron Design GitHub - https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/tree/Voron2.4/CAD

On a Core X/Y printer, to move the tool head straight forward/backward or left/right, that both the X and Y motors have to move at the same time. If one of the motors is not working, the tool head will move at a 45 degree angle. As NoGuru suggests, check the wiring for the motors, odds are...

Ah, that would do it. Good to know your found a solution.

Thanks for the write-up and the time it took to gather all of that data! I too had inconsistent first layers that seemed to vary between prints, not within the same print. So I assumed it was the homing of Z that was the issue. Thinking also that nozzle ooze was likely a culprit and that I...

That fixed my issues! Thanks again! BTW, on the KlipperScreen GitHub, they are now recommending using command sudo systemctl mask ModemManager.service as a more "persistent" solution. Proabably a little bit beyond my understanding, but I'm guessing the masking, which seems to do a redirect...

@Laserbea4k43 - thanks for the lead! This sounds like it could be the cause of the issue I've been having. I'll check it out after work today.

I've been having a simiilar issue for a few weeks. I don't remember the exact message, but it is something like "can't connect to MCU". The issue doesn't happen every time I save and restart, but it does happen the majority of the time. The only way to restore operations is a full restart of...

Actually there are quite a few sizes available. Bondtech says they make 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.80, 1.0, 1.4 and 1.8mm. I see all of those available on Bondtech's and other reseller's sites. I'm using 0.4 mm nozzle and am planning on getting the 0.6 to to achieve faster printing and take...

I'm using Bondtech CHT nozzles on my Mosquito Magnum and no issues with leaking. I'm guessing the cheap brass nozzles you have are not quite to spec on the threads.

Just bought my first spool of this. I was impressed with how well it printed. I typically print with Polymaker Polylite ASA and printed the Inland with the same settings (245 nozzle / 100 bed). The quality of the results were the same. For the more than 40% savings on cost, I think it is a...

I tried a couple of printed drag chains when I was building my 2.4. They were somewhat of a pain to print - so many small surfaces. Both printed versions workied, but the movement wasn't as smooth as I wanted it. In the end, I bought Igus chains and think they are worth it. Really not much...

Yes, I'm using their plain aluminum bed, not the magnetic one. I had the bed in use before they came out with their kinematics kit, but upgraded once it was available.

When you heat the bed, it expands. If multiple fixed points exist in your bed mount, the expansion will result in the bed warping. Warping can be minimized by heating slowly and allowing the frame and bed to warm up together. There will still be warping, but hopefully less. Kinematics only...