Recent content by jonhi

Part 12 It’s finally done™. I’ve built a VORON that prints reliably and I’ve modded it enough to be able to leave it alone for a while, so I think it’s time to wrap up this build series with a little retrospective. Building the printer was really fun and rewarding I’ve always seen myself...

Part 11 The left POM nut got ground down, making the bed fall down. After 600 hours, the printer met it’s first major failure. I know I earlier described how the extruder starter skipping in a big way, but that was just some filament getting stuck in the extruder. This time a part...

It's been pretty solid for me. I haven't had any issue with inserting filament, in fact I've had more problem getting it through the Galileo where I often need to cut the filament to get it to load. It does increase the drag, but not sure how many issues that cause? I've been saved by it a...

Part 10 The build is going well and the printer is printing tons of random stuff and I’m generally in awe of how cool the printer is. But there’s one thing that sucks: it’s damn loud. I knew that it wouldn’t be silent, but I wasn’t prepared for this kind of noise. Silent controller fans The...

Meshed panels Adding meshes for the panels might be one of the prettiest mods you can do—and I think it’s very pretty—but that’s not why I did it. I added it as a safety measure against my kids (or me) inserting something like a screwdriver inside the electronics while the printer is running...

Smart filament sensor Bed adhesion and first layer problems are annoying, but they can be mitigated by watching the first layer go down and if it goes badly you don’t lose that much time. Something much more annoying is when the filament tangles.According to the internet it “should never...

Part 9 The printer is done, but I feel one of the best part of a VORON printer is the ability to modify and personalize it. There a tons of mods you can do, and while I’ve done a few there are lots more that I’d like to do some day. It’s a wonderful feeling to augment the printer with parts...

Yes, I do think that if you use a brass nut with these leadscrews then the screws will gradually get destroyed. So I'd have to replace all Z motors if I want to go with the brass option, but that's quite expensive compared to replacing the POM nuts.

I did order this nut: https://3do.eu/coupler/1129-t8-pom-nut-lead-8mm-pitch2mm.html ... But it didn't fit. Looking at it more, I think I need a "Tr8*4-2p (2 starts)" nut, which I found here: https://www.electrokit.com/leadscrew-nut-pom-tr84 (good because it's a Swedish company with fast...

I heard back from 3DJake and LDO is sending a new "teflon-coated leadscrew Z motor with a stainless leadscrew and PEEK POM nut". But it's shipping from China so it's around 4 weeks of waiting time. In the meantime I'll try to find a new nut that fits the screws.

Huh. I started the other thread, but I also used some kind of lubricant (probably too much).

I've sent an email to 3DJake (where i bought the kit) and asked them to contact LDO for me (dunno where else i should turn?). I'll see what they come back with. I haven't seen any wear on the leadscrews and the other POM nuts seem fine.

Alright. I found one potential issue, with the mount not being completely flush against the extrusions/cover: Could something like this be the cause? I noticed that the pom wasn't ground evenly: With one side having clearly visible threads, and on the other they're almost completely...

After 600 hours my Trident met a major failure with the POM nuts, where one got ground down until it completely lost the grip: This "shouldn't happen", but there were at least two others who reported the same issue in Discord so I thought I'll start a discussion here about it. Maybe...

I assume you're connecting it to the toolhead PCB? The thing is that the wiring may not be correct, and I had to switch the pins on the cable that came with the tap kit to match the pins on the PCB.