Recent content by jtdowney

For the MGN12 conversion on the X you need to change the XY joints (since it has a cutout for the rail) and the X carriage (sounds like you’re going to tap). Remember to print the rail center guides as well for the MGN12.

This is what I do, and haven't had a problem. None of my printers use a dedicated 5v power supply anymore.

I got these MG90S servos from Amazon. They were acceptable for my use, perhaps a bit on the weak side, but with tuning, it has been very repeatable. I use my Switchwire to print only PLA and the Christmas season is when I do 90% of my PLA printing, so these servos have been running all day.

The thing I'd be most concerned about is the SSR failing closed (so it runs constantly). You can replace the fuse and watch it carefully after powering it on to see what is happening. Just be quick with the power button. If the SSR did fail, an estop wouldn't help.

I loosen the front idlers all the way and get the belts equal length and as tight as I can get them by hand on the carriage. Then I adjust the front idlers equally until I find the tension I am looking for. There is some guidance on the docs site, but at this point, I know it when I feel it.

The MAX31865 is required for a PT100 but you can run a PT1000 into a normal analog pin on the MCU same as a thermistor. The pullup resistor value does change the calculation and you need to configure it in Klipper since it will be 1kΩ instead of the default of 4.7kΩ.

The SB2040 has an option for switching the pullup resistor for better support of a PT1000.

Tap can use the same wires your probe was already using if you get the 24v OptoTap V2. If you want to run the LEDs in your Stealthburner tool head, you will need cables for 5v and signal. The easiest thing to do is run three extra wires for +5v, GND, and signal directly from a neopixel port on...

All of my printers are on typical wood top workbenches although I am running out of room. I ran my V2.2 on an Ikea lack end table when I first built it. It wasn’t the best but was fine.

The reason I switched is because of the temperature drift I was getting with the probe. I use my switchwire for PLA with no enclosure and it would drift in Z between prints quite often.

SuperSlicer has V0 in the configuration wizard. I haven't used it but it is probably fine but meant for the bowden style pocketwatch extruder from the V0 and not the V0.1 style MiniAfterburner. It is still workable but you'll want to tune the extruder retractions at the very least.

Yes, I am using the Klicky NG on my Switchwire.

It has been fine for me. I have it dialed in and don’t have to adjust it too often. It’s a bit weird going from my other machines where I have automatic z calibration setup.

I run Klicky on my Switchwire. The servo is ~fine. It was pretty finicky to get started, but I also have the cheapest servos from Amazon, so I am not sure if that is a problem. After a break-in and tuning period, it works great for me and has helped meshing quite a bit because of the built-in...

Since you're trying to connect to a moonraker on a remote device, I'd check if your browser can even reach the moonraker API server by visiting it. In your case, that is likely http://192.168.1.228:7125. If you get a page that says "Welcome to Moonraker" then at least your networking is fine. At...