Recent content by Le0n

Thanks! Fujifilm XT-4 with the 35mm f/2 “nifty fifty”. I like this focal length for the natural field of view that it gives photos and it’s my goto for almost everything. Plus a film simulation that is mostly true to life (slight desaturation, slight warm shift). My usual internal debate is...

To piggy back on what @brendanm720 said earlier, definitely look into the PIF program. Vetted quality, printed on Vorons for Vorons, at cost + shipping. If you get your printed parts earlier in the process, you can source parts in the order that the manual calls for, and build as you go. You can...

Glad you found the write up helpful! Right, I had to make a new mount for my EBB36 because the holes needed to line up with how the VZ Hextrudort positions the extruder motor at an angle. If you are sticking with miniSB, the motor mounts to the same existing two side screws, and you should be...

Not to derail your build log, claudermilk, but just something I wanted to share since I've never had much luck with tuning apps either. A buddy of mine designed a really nice belt tension meter, and it's been SO much more pleasant to use than tuning apps. Smoothness and consistency of the jig...

Building another full size printer could be more efficient in churning out parts than a v0.2. If production speed is what you're looking for rather than accels.

I can confirm that my Trident and Micron do not have resonances like you are experiencing, but have seen this happening on occasion. When my printers are in use, the loudest components are the fans. When you take your panels off, does the hum drop significantly?

I also wait for chamber temps to hit 40C before printing. Okay, more questions trying to suss out the issue. Since you've shown this happening with gray and black filament, I'm guessing this happens to all of your spools? If your PEI sheet is double sided, how is it on the textured side? Do...

Similarly, I have one spring steel with an unknown PEI that really has a hard time sticking no matter how much I scuff and wash. CSHyde stuff always works well for me. Do you have a way to measure chamber temps? Or maybe there's a gap in your chamber seal? Or too much cooling too fast...

Thank you, @robrob! I was really pushing for print quality and my Trident did a great job with these. I even checked the seam placement on each part and moved/painted them to make them as hidden as possible! Fusion Filaments makes some amazingly forgiving ABS too. Anything matte with sparkles...

No worries! Taming those EBB36 wires and reclaiming more Y is still on my radar, but I'm just letting it be for now. Just threw on ZeroPanels for quick panel removal, which is nice. Chamber seal seems sufficient, which is great.

Looks like a useable PRINT_START. Some suggestions (though none of this helps with an inconsistent first layer): - The second G28 after the Z_TILT_ADJUST can just home Z with G28 Z to shave a few seconds. - Any particular reason why you turn off fans with M107? - The G92 E0.0 after M109 can be...

Looks like your definition for ‘bottom_leds’ has some syntax errors. Can you paste the relevant code blocks for the neopixel definition and your effect macro?

Hm… A 0.101mm range on a 250mm bed is not terrible and should definitely be corrected by the mesh. Can you share a photo of first layer inconsistencies? Also, paste your [PRINT_START] macro or share your config file so we can make sure the mesh is active and not somehow being removed prior to...

When I adjust my gantry corners, my goal is to set them so that they aren't the highest or lowest spots in my mesh. In your case, like claudermilk says, the rear left is sitting a bit too low, so I would loosen that screw and raise it .1-.2mm or so, retighten, re-Z-tilt (important!), and take a...

If you're lucky, the problem is in the toolhead side crimps. You can check the connectors on the thermistor and hotend without any kind of major disassembly. See if any crimps came loose and need replacing.