Recent content by leograyc

I had that a lot before. The root cause is actually the camera. For me it's not able underpower, it actually the camera module being shitty and occasionally send out wrong voltage on the usb line, so the Pi3's entire USB module is rebooted when this happen, which brings down all the connections...

I got the same honeybadger 10k rpm fan for cooling the hotend. My CANbus board is reading 50C on itself when I'm printing (shower curtain closed, with some leaks). I think the chamber temp is not that high, but like 40+.

Actually yes and no. I took all the Z out, so yes, I have to re-square the entire frame and all that. But I kept the gantry in tack so that's nothing to touch. I also think the longest part of building the printer is actually the wiring. That took me the longest to come up with a good layout in...

Just to throw in a datapoint. I actually print PLA with my door closed. I do print some box-parts that are 200mm square, with no top-btm surface, exposed 30% cubic infill. No warping problem. I was recently playing around with the idea of auto part eject by letting the printhead push the part...

I've done a similar thing but shipping it to where I go to school. I have removed the Z extrusions on my V2 350 and pancaked it. But the X and Y dimentiion still won't fit, its 500mm +, wider then my suit case. And I have to ship my bed and Z gantries separate. The printer with bed and Z...

My experience has been I am able to print ABS faster then PLA, but have to print PETG much much slower. I am using the flowrate to limit the speed at different filament. My dragon SF can do 13 on PLA, 14 on ABS and 10 on PETG. Maybe you should consider trying differrent ABS filament. I noticed...

Here is a thought, have you try different filament type? Like PLA ? We have proved the problem stay with different hotend, G2 is working fine. Given the low temperature of your ABS, it sound strange and that might be the issue.