Recent content by lord-carlos

If possible for your, I would advice to take a look at the pins in discord, in the Toasted Marshmallow thread. Lots of advice on how to get temps up there: https://discord.com/channels/460117602945990666/1021908552702505051 The "cheapest" isolation is the "blanket mod" which is just throwing a...

More chamber heat = stronger ABS parts Unless you know what you are doing, you want to stay BELOW 80C To quote pnewb from discord: I print around ~60 - 65C, but I also did not isolate it well and don't have dedicated bed fans, just a filter below my 2.4 bed. If your printer is made from...

For temperature sensor you can use the same kind of probe that is also in your hotend. Just two wires going to your motherboard. Mounting location is debatable. Though I would say somewhere close to the print area is optimal. Bedfans are not the easiest to install on a trident, but I think...

What kind of temperature? Isolation works best. Start with that. If you need more heat add some bed fans. The combination of both should get you to or close to the limit what a voron can handle.

The voron0 that I used for maybe ~4kg of ABS is already very gunked up on the windows by some resedue. Do you use any filter in those printers? https://www.fabbaloo.com/news/enclosure-woes-how-abs-printing-could-be-harming-your-3d-printer

Ah no. I did not. Will try that. Thanks a bunch.

Hello I use fluidd which has a SET_PAUSE_NEXT_LAYER macro. It's just that it does not work, it just continues printing. No error, no message. How could I debug where the issue is? fluidd.cfg has this: # Usage: SET_PAUSE_NEXT_LAYER [ENABLE=[0 | 1]] [MACRO=<name>] [gcode_macro...

My unload script extrudes a bit, retracts a bit, waits for about 1 or 2 seconds for the top to cool, and then retracts all the way. I don't know if this will help in your case, but it might.

How you are enjoying the BTT smart filament sensor2? On mine the filament often can't be inserted as it get stuck right after the sensor. And it increases the drag quite a lot.

But then again a button to do the klipper e-stop is better than touchscreen only e-stop.

Can't you send the spools back? How many spools have you bought to make it worth to switch to 2.85 :3 Not only conversion time, but also the time it takes to get a decent print profile again.

I use PCBklicky and normal z endstop. I guess that way you don't have to get and attache the probe for z home. I also use klipper auto z script, if the nozzle changes or bed heats I get the same z offset. Which is pretty neat. But unless you often switch the nozzle you probably get a similar...

You can configure the probe as a virtual endstop. Thus you don't need the physical endstop. But you can also use both, it's what I do. Or are you asking if you should upgrade the z endstop that came with your kit to the sexbolt endstop?

Well yes, you added them, so you probably need them. It's just a warning, you can ignore it. It might be possible to add the files to the .gitignore file to remove the warning.

I have the same. It's the auto z script added files to the klipper folder. I just ignored it for now.