Recent content by lord-carlos

Yeah, that would not work for my setup. I have my filament in a dry box, and PLA through a bowden from the dry box has a relative high resistance. ABS and PETG works better though.

With no bowden going out, would the extruder not YANK on the filament when moving away from the inlet? I imagine that could result in slight print quality deterioration.

The pi5 will limit the boost clock if it does not get enough power, and AFAIK it's still faster then a pi4 even in that mode. So it might work and give you decent performance. But it's probably not optimal. Btw, what is wrong with a buck converter?

I build the v0.0 and oh my god it was a pain the the behind. Though I think they fixed a lot with 0.1 and 0.2. Definitely get a kit that does not have the original extrusion bed. But one with for example Kirigami Bed. Saves time and pain. Voron Trident might be easier to build.

What material did you print your parts in? If I may ask. Regular ABS or some "easy to print" ABS blend?

That whole category seems dead. Not a single post this year. But you can also add a filter yourself:

Do those really need a heated chamber? With CF in them they should not warp that much. And with the bed running at 120C a voron should get pretty toasty no? I remember printing non-CF PC-blend on a Prusa mk3 inside a closed. Though that was mostly smaller items like part cooling shrouds. Qidi...

I had that a few times when a cable was between the gantry and the back while homing. It would result in inconstant Y homing.

It seems like you have two [gcode_macro PRINT_END] macros? Did you add one yourself? Anyhow, both contain G0 X{th.axis_maximum.x//2} Y{th.axis_maximum.y - 2} F3600 ; park nozzle at rear That tells the printer where to go. axis maximum gets defined a few lines before that. Your umbilical...

My guess would be something de-tached from the build plate. Either by warping or something curled up and the nozzle it it. But that is just a guess.

Yeah, had this on my v0. As far as I remember it was not a big deal and would go away.

For what printer though?

You could connect a ethernet cable to the pi, then access the web interface. Though I would think about just starting from scratch with the pi and klipper. Who knows what's on there. Flash is with a fresh install of MainsailOS, or RatOS, or rasbian if you want to do everything yourself.

That is odd. Are you sure it is actually the right hole for heatset inserts? And the right size heatset inserts?

Just for a quick test you could swap the 40% out with 20%. Also might throw a blanket / quilt / cover over the printer to isolate it. Not necessary as the final solution, but just to see how this affects your ABS prints. There is a thread on the voron discord that specializes in isolating the...