Recent content by lord-carlos

I had that a few times when a cable was between the gantry and the back while homing. It would result in inconstant Y homing.

It seems like you have two [gcode_macro PRINT_END] macros? Did you add one yourself? Anyhow, both contain G0 X{th.axis_maximum.x//2} Y{th.axis_maximum.y - 2} F3600 ; park nozzle at rear That tells the printer where to go. axis maximum gets defined a few lines before that. Your umbilical...

My guess would be something de-tached from the build plate. Either by warping or something curled up and the nozzle it it. But that is just a guess.

Yeah, had this on my v0. As far as I remember it was not a big deal and would go away.

For what printer though?

You could connect a ethernet cable to the pi, then access the web interface. Though I would think about just starting from scratch with the pi and klipper. Who knows what's on there. Flash is with a fresh install of MainsailOS, or RatOS, or rasbian if you want to do everything yourself.

That is odd. Are you sure it is actually the right hole for heatset inserts? And the right size heatset inserts?

Just for a quick test you could swap the 40% out with 20%. Also might throw a blanket / quilt / cover over the printer to isolate it. Not necessary as the final solution, but just to see how this affects your ABS prints. There is a thread on the voron discord that specializes in isolating the...

Unless you use something like carbon fiber filament I can't see how any printer can hide 0.2mm layer lines. I can't see how that is physical possible without post processing. All modern printers these days have similar print quality. I would say even an entry level printer can print similar...

Probably this one https://www.swiss3dc.com/dhb-hotend

Imagine how many tools you can have on a 350mm printer :)

I would also like to know what bed you are using. Have you run a probe accuracy test?

This looks hella cool. One toolhead, but multiple nozzles to swap between. $250 for the head and $35 a tool. They are aiming for a release around november.

I think I desoldered that switch and soldered a "normal" one on. Same swiches are also used for endstops so I had some laying around. It looks a bit like this But you can also buy kits like this.

Have you tried running a PROBE_ACCURACY macro on the klicky probe? For me it was the switch itself, it had a rubber tip, https://forum.vorondesign.com/threads/sometimes-pcb-klicky-probe-is-unreliable.1092/#post-8817