Recent content by m00dawg

Thanks folks! That gives me quite a few options to consider!

The latest version uses USB. In fact I think even the older version did. The nice to have would be able to have some sort of hub or connection into a NiteHawk (which uses USB) so we can avoid having to add more cables. I have one but have honestly not installed it yet.

PA is a great point yep. As is the thermistor of the Revo. Interesting point there is my MK3s all run Revo's and do not have any skipping issues for the same models even at the same speeds and similar temps. I don't use the cooling fan by default on these models either. However I am using a...

Alrighty! So ran the flow rate test at 240C. The flat side along the Y shows some artifacts that I think are unrelated but I might need to look at those (I don't see them on the Y side curves). Along the X straight bits, looks like I am run at 10mm/s as a conservative max. Reality is it doesn't...

Digging up a slightly old thread but thought it was worth it here. I was having a similar issue and it was seemingly getting worse. I ran into this forum post and, sure enough, the front left corner pulley had some (ground up) filament which also seemed to strip part of the belt away. Been...

Aha so there is! Yep I use Orca for the Vorons. Yep that should make that super easy. I'll hopefully run through that tomorrow and report back for folks. Would be good to document my results just in case anyone else is using PushPlastic Black PLA (and I assume at least some of the other colors...

Oooh that's actually an excellent point! Pretty sure I haven't. I've done extrusion calibration but not the actual volumetric flow. I think that would be well worth the exercise, thanks for the insight!

Yep this has crossed my mind a lot though with more normal filaments, I don't print nearly as hot, typically around 215C. If I print the PP Black PLA around those temps on my Vorons, I get skips way earlier. In fact I have to print hot on my MK3s (Revos) also. The only one I can print cooler...

Ah I somehow thought the Orbiter was a planetary gear system as well (hence "Orbit") but that's a good point. Indeed, it's the motor skipping due to being unable to push the plastic through. I did check alignment. It did take longer to align the this G2 vs the one in my 2.4 but it does seem well...

I have G2's on both my 350mm 2.4 and 300mm Trident and generally they work really well. It's a fantastic extruder and I found it was easier to build than C2 and gives me better results. One thing I have noticed though is it seems to be easier to start skipping. I use Push Plastic's Black PLA for...

I put the model up on Printables though it's not the fanciest as it's not parametric. I included the FreeCAD for folks that wanna mess around with it though.

Update there, I spent part of the weekend printing the above model and re-skew-correcting both my Trident and 2.4. I got my skew down to 0.01 on both. As noted above I recall getting to that level with the Califlower on my Trident too - but still somehow getting some visible skew with some of...

Here's what I've come up with to try on my Trident and 2.4. The hypotenuse is 296.99mm and the square is 210mm. Those aren't beautiful numbers but I think that'll suffice. I basically combined the model referenced in the Klipper docs (same as the above vid) with the Califlower in that the bottom...

Indeed I've printed that exact model. I can also scale it by say 2.75x - the problem there (and this is true of the Califlower too) is then the width of the frame gets to be large and ends up eating plastic. That's why I was thinking of making one sized at around 275mm or so where I can keep the...

A bit of an update as my Prusa XL arrived yesterday and I'm about halfway through it. I noticed three things: They suggest far more torque than I have tended to use for my Voron builds (even providing a crude torque gague) The belts on the XY axis seem much tighter than I tend to have mine They...