Recent content by MichaelOToole

Good idea, I did this in the past but forgot... that's what happens when you haven't used your printer in a very long time... grey cells are asleep... Will try both ;) Installed both but as Orca setup for my Voron was easier, I went with it. I sliced the problem print and it printed perfectly...

Been using Superslicer since the beginning but a recent print at the exact same layer it becomes whispy, as if it suddenly changed to extruding at 60 or 70%. Seven or eight attempts in a row (changed filaments, just in case) have this issue, printing other items are fine, it's just this one...

Header logo image is stretch breaking header, possible fix is to add height: 100px; to logo css .p-header-logo.p-header-logo--image img { vertical-align: bottom; max-width: 100%; height: 100px; }

A word of caution. On two separate occasions a grub screw on one motor became loose, resulting in the gantry becoming considerably skewed, luckily I was able to switch off before any major damage was done. Had I tightened these fully, I have no doubt I would have broken or bent the carriage...

Up and running since late January with over 100 prints to date. I print with PLA and PETG mainly, no requirements for ASA/ABS or fancier filaments at the moment. I had quite a few failed prints in the beginning, mostly down to bed adhesion. I assumed it might be down poor assembly / alignment...

The manual did indicate the other way round, but when secured, it resulted in a lot more tension than I was happy with. After reversing them I noticed they sit better, if necessary I could always add a few more turns to achieve similar tension, so I left them reversed...

Requirements: A 60 Watt heater powered by 24V will draw 2.5 Amps, motor about 1 to 2 Amps... total 4.5 Amps A 80 Watt heater powered by 24V will draw 3.4 Amps, motor about 1 to 2 Amps... total 5.4 Amps In theory a quality USB-C cable operating at 24V can safely deliver 5 Amps, so it might...

With my build I did not use the Diode, it might be down to the control board but I guess it wasn't required or is already present on the BigTreeTech Octopus V1.1 I used Tap and set up and used endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop in the config, so didn't need the endstop probe and its shaft. I...

@3dCase, On another build, prior to finding Voron, I designed a 500x500mm frame with a fixed bed. I used 20x20mm and 20x40mm extrusions with 4mm triangular supports in the top and bottom corners. It was considerably stronger and stiffer than my Voron but most certainly over engineered unless you...

My apologies I misunderstood... Here is the picture, I tightened these to about 1/3 of the shaft length, just enough provide tension... max would be half way....

Not a great image but here you go... can't get one from inside, too restricted... Sent reply PM...

I watched your and Nero3d's build series, I also watched Maple Leaf Makers series (as it was an All Metal Build as was mine)... My LDO kit from 3djake was delayed for several weeks so I had time to watch almost every Voron 2.4 video on youtube... I very much appreciate your content, keep it up.

Thoughts after building Voron 2.4 Rev C and spending almost six months with it... Was it worth the money? Being an all metal build cost including metal Tap and both sets of tensioners, plus additional plastic parts and other spares cost: €2000 There's no doubt I could get comparable results...

I may have forgotten to post an update on this, the new SB0000 replacement worked flawlessly, I was extra careful during assembly/alignment... Over the past three months, If a print stick, it prints flawlessly... When printing the same part in PLA using exact same slicer settings, sometimes I...

You don't use a standard USB cable for this application, check out Nikehawk SB USB cable designed for the application...