Recent content by MichaelOToole

Just to update on the z_offset setting and print results since... To recap, probe calibration suggested -0.45 (allowing for just touching the paper which was 0.01mm thick) but this didn't work, all test prints failed... I manually set z_offset: -0.330 (after some more test prints) and my final...

Good to know, might be time for some upgrades... Will have look at Beacon and Cartorapher, I'm guessing I will need some more printed parts, then checkout Galieleo2...

I think I'm related to these little creatures :) The breaking latch part would not have been an issue if I didn't take the easy and lazy way out, I should have looked more closely and took it apart. Mind you, since I built my Voron 2.4, I only ever had one issue and that was bed adhesion...

It all started with a broken clockwork2 latch... Recently latch part broke, so I replaced it with the reinforced version but could not get the latch to click in place/close. I purchased the aluminum version (which comes in 3 parts) I replaced broken part, again it would not close... Left with...

An interesting question, I assume you wanted to know the distance the probe moved moves before triggering? I've measured it by running the probe calibration, lowering the probe (using the provided buttons in the window that pops up), until contact with the bed, I then placed several 0.01 mm...

Make sure hot-end is clean... Run probe_calibrate in console... Place a piece of paper under the hot-end and adjust the settings in the current window (it will popup a window to allow changes)... Adjust up\down incrementally, when the point of the hot-end just contacts the paper, note the...

Many thanks

Part of the latch broke on mine (the top section that clicks closed i.e. [a]_latch.stl), I printed another but it didn't quite fit... are there two versions? It appears I printed the heavy duty version and it doesn't fit... As I built mine with ChaoticLab CNC Metal Parts, I checked to see if...

Good idea, I did this in the past but forgot... that's what happens when you haven't used your printer in a very long time... grey cells are asleep... Will try both ;) Installed both but as Orca setup for my Voron was easier, I went with it. I sliced the problem print and it printed perfectly...

Been using Superslicer since the beginning but a recent print at the exact same layer it becomes whispy, as if it suddenly changed to extruding at 60 or 70%. Seven or eight attempts in a row (changed filaments, just in case) have this issue, printing other items are fine, it's just this one...

Header logo image is stretch breaking header, possible fix is to add height: 100px; to logo css .p-header-logo.p-header-logo--image img { vertical-align: bottom; max-width: 100%; height: 100px; }

A word of caution. On two separate occasions a grub screw on one motor became loose, resulting in the gantry becoming considerably skewed, luckily I was able to switch off before any major damage was done. Had I tightened these fully, I have no doubt I would have broken or bent the carriage...

Up and running since late January with over 100 prints to date. I print with PLA and PETG mainly, no requirements for ASA/ABS or fancier filaments at the moment. I had quite a few failed prints in the beginning, mostly down to bed adhesion. I assumed it might be down poor assembly / alignment...

The manual did indicate the other way round, but when secured, it resulted in a lot more tension than I was happy with. After reversing them I noticed they sit better, if necessary I could always add a few more turns to achieve similar tension, so I left them reversed...

Requirements: A 60 Watt heater powered by 24V will draw 2.5 Amps, motor about 1 to 2 Amps... total 4.5 Amps A 80 Watt heater powered by 24V will draw 3.4 Amps, motor about 1 to 2 Amps... total 5.4 Amps In theory a quality USB-C cable operating at 24V can safely deliver 5 Amps, so it might...