Recent content by Neil_I

What probe are you using? standard inductive type probe or something else?

You can make z-offset moves down to +/- 0.005 in both Fluidd and Mainsail. Try using the console command SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z_ADJUST=-0.005 MOVE=1 Just to double check - are you clicking the z offset arrows (bottom right) or the toolhead movement arrows (bottom left), as the toolhead movement is...

The tolerances on the 2 guidler parts are quite tight so you do need a well tuned printer to print them correctly, so that they just snap together. Make sure you have the latest revision STLs, as mentioned above, and maybe print a Voron test cube, just to double check your dimensional accuracy.

Are you able to test your probe at different positions around the bed. Use the 'probe_accuracy' command and post up the results. Also test it multiple time in the same position (centre of bed?), just to confirm that it is giving consistent results. This may not be the cause of your problems but...

Just asking as you hadn’t posted a photo of the smaller board. I’ve seen a post in the past where someone had misaligned the 8 pin connector when refitting the SB front onto the printer, so that it connected to the wrong pins on the main board, and that made some magic smoke. Worth double...

Don't know if it's related to your issue but are you really running your bed heater at 100% ? I'm sure that the recommended max is 60% (max_power: 0.6 in printer config), I assume to avoid overloading/overheating the SSR

Which pins did you use to connect your LEDs?

I think this is common 'feature' on all SB2040s :(. Mine is the same and reads way off. I did not find a way to configure this sensor so decided not to use it. I use a sensor in the chamber instead

I've compared against my config and the only differences that i can see, apart from thermistor type and a slightly lower run current, are : microsteps: 32 I have this set to 16 stealthchop_threshold: 999999. I have this set to 0 Not sure if these...

Can you share your extruder config in printer.cfg? Just want to compare as I have the same setup as you

There's also a mod for an integrated filament sensor in CW2. I've been using it for a few months and it works perfectly - https://www.printables.com/model/292186-stealthburner-clockwork-2-filament-sensor/comments

Assuming that you are using SB/CW2? or is it a different setup? Also, are you converting to canbus with a separate board, or do you want an umbilical solution for all (14?) of the existing wires?

It used to be 2-3 passes for me, with a visible droop on rear right side when turning motors off. Since fitting the GE5C mod to the Z joints QGL is only 1-2 passes and there's no visible droop. Definitely the best mod I've done so far. There was a nice improvement for input shaper graphs and...

Is your fan disabled in the slicer for more than just the first layer? Looks like a cooling issue with the start of the print. Also, do you get a similar issue printing other objects, or is it just this one?