Recent content by NoGuru

I am aware of Monolith and it was created just before I implemented TinyShellScripts AWD system but I don't have time to change it now. I will be doing it next time I build a printer. Monolith has ALOT of benefits and it really a great creation.

I can't see the video at work but I have a 4 motor Voron 2.4. Syncing the motors should be done but not 100% critical. There is two ways to do this, one is mechanical and the other logical. Lookup Vez3D on youtube and find his video for syncing motors. On top of that I use a motor sync macro you...

This could be the issue: Jun 29 20:15:01 voron python[963]: CPU Temperature: 38.05 See if you can put a fan or anything to cool it.

I don't think you are wrong going with the Rapido UHF, its a decent hotend. It was just want not right for me. Yes, no clear winner. I remember switching to CANbus way back when people first started to implement it because I had a wire break in my loom. Many people print for years with no wire...

I just quickly looked at the Mellow Fly Pro X10 "that's a mouth full" and the specs look pretty good. If you pair it with a CM4 PI I think it can be a good board. I like the vertical drivers for cooling as well. I don't see how Klipper could be closed source for this. You will just install it...

I agree, the budget parts can work but can also cause many headaches. Also maybe you can build it for cheaper if you kept it stock but I don't know any Voron builders who keep them stock. If I had to guess I would say I have spend over $3500 on my 2.4. But I don't care, its fun.

The Rapido UHF is $100 and the Bambu hotend is $35. I only get a little more flow from the UHF and if it breaks, clogs or fails in anyway, its not worth it to me. The Voron cost more then the Bambu labs X1C with AMS. But they are just differant printers. One is more fun to build and mod and...

I would take the board with 2240 drivers over 2209. limited budget - No way, my Vorons have cost way more then the X1C by far. the need to print models bigger than 256mm - Yes customization without limits and full control of each aspect of the machine - Yes Cheaper spare parts due to the fact...

My guess is once some heat is generated in the chamber the belts will relax to the natural position again.

No, USB is for Beacon. I have a newer CANbus board that I could plug Beacon into instead of running the cable all the way from the toolhead to the RaspberryPi 5 but I have not the time right now. Also I forgot to share my config in case anyone wanted to skim through it...

I recall your bed adhesion issues. These new probes will end those for good. I use Beacon but others with Cartorapher have the same results, perfect bed mesh and adhesion every time, no matter what. Also, I switched to Galieleo2 some time ago and its light years better then Clockwork. I too...

That's a lot of questions so I will do my best to answer. Here is the short log of the 4 motor conversion https://forum.vorondesign.com/threads/converting-my-2-4-from-2-motor-to-4-motor.1549/ It's been a while so I don't recall all the details but they are in the log or you can ask. I will say...

We call them Gremlins in the US. Little fictional characters that like to mess with and break things for no reason.

Mine is far from stock. Maybe the only thing left stock on it is the Steathburner hotend but I have an SLA printed XOL toolhead but I have not had time to install it. I run 48v and AWD or 4 motors for the X and Y which I don't recommend if you value the space of the 350mm. Beacon and CAN buss...

Sometimes you have to be very precise with the number so I make jumps of 10 then 5 then 1's when you are getting close. The other two factors are run current and speed. You can try and run a little faster which seems counter intuitive but it works.