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Hey sorry for the late reply, I just saw this post. I am not familiar with the Revolver. But there should be a description for the parts you need for steathburner. You can do a process of elimination.
Since you are AWD, have you synced the motors? With AWD you have to make sure everything is very synced, so belt length, belt tension, square of X beam.
There is a macro that will sync the motors, let me find it. Here it is https://github.com/MRX8024/motors-sync
Yes a Voron can be reliable but its funny how much you want to tinker and improve it or maybe that is just me.
Bambu is not really closed off, some printers make you use there Slicer and file format. The one downside to the Bambu is they want you to upload your prints though there cloud but it...
The build is not that difficult if you can do basic electronics. Everything is well documented and I would say the Voron community is probably one of the most helpful if not the best. This coming from a pretty old guy with lots of hobbies.
Yes a well build machine can do great prints and last...
I agree with reorienting the part as well. Another suggesting is trying a different slicer. My Goto is Orca but often when I see stuff like this I will try Bambu, or Prusa sicer just to see if it makes a difference.
I have to agree with all of this as well. In fact an Octopus and Rasp 5 is my go to setup now. I do have a V0 with a CB1 and Manta and having issues with the wifi on my CB1 not wanted to connect to my network anymore or I should say it connects but does not allow me to SSH or launch Mainsail...
The OS for the printer is Klipper and you are running Mainsail by default. That means you just need to enter the IP address of the printer into your web browser and BOOM, full access to the printer, and all the files and config on the printer.
You can use it like that but if you dry it at 65 you will need to wait a day or two before you start printing. Also Annealing the part will make a significant difference it how well it maintains its shape.
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