Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members!
Nailed it! It basically the same thing.
Pretty sure I will go with an LS3 or LT motor. LT4 would be nice but adding the cooling for anything with forced air becomes difficult. De-stroking a 6.2 LS3 can give me plenty of power, some higher RPM's and a simpler build if you can call any of it...
It's called a Superlight SL-C. Component car, not a kit car. Instead of using parts from a doner car, all parts are brand new CNC machined. You put it together and pick the motor and trans you wish.
I am still in the planning phase but its a lot just to plan. I might do a Youtube build channel...
Okay I will do my best to check this weekend. I am in the process of starting to build a race car so I am limited on time but I will do my best to get back soon.
I don't recall doing anything other then having to reload some of the repos.
I will link you to my backups in case you wanted to look through them. https://github.com/NoGuru2/VoronV2.4
I have a Galileo 2 extruder and I will heat just about any filament to around 60c then hit retract and it comes right out every time, like a cold pull.
I am aware of Monolith and it was created just before I implemented TinyShellScripts AWD system but I don't have time to change it now. I will be doing it next time I build a printer.
Monolith has ALOT of benefits and it really a great creation.
I can't see the video at work but I have a 4 motor Voron 2.4.
Syncing the motors should be done but not 100% critical. There is two ways to do this, one is mechanical and the other logical. Lookup Vez3D on youtube and find his video for syncing motors.
On top of that I use a motor sync macro you...
I don't think you are wrong going with the Rapido UHF, its a decent hotend. It was just want not right for me.
Yes, no clear winner. I remember switching to CANbus way back when people first started to implement it because I had a wire break in my loom.
Many people print for years with no wire...
I just quickly looked at the Mellow Fly Pro X10 "that's a mouth full" and the specs look pretty good.
If you pair it with a CM4 PI I think it can be a good board. I like the vertical drivers for cooling as well.
I don't see how Klipper could be closed source for this. You will just install it...
I agree, the budget parts can work but can also cause many headaches.
Also maybe you can build it for cheaper if you kept it stock but I don't know any Voron builders who keep them stock.
If I had to guess I would say I have spend over $3500 on my 2.4.
But I don't care, its fun.
The Rapido UHF is $100 and the Bambu hotend is $35. I only get a little more flow from the UHF and if it breaks, clogs or fails in anyway, its not worth it to me.
The Voron cost more then the Bambu labs X1C with AMS.
But they are just differant printers. One is more fun to build and mod and...
I would take the board with 2240 drivers over 2209.
limited budget - No way, my Vorons have cost way more then the X1C by far.
the need to print models bigger than 256mm - Yes
customization without limits and full control of each aspect of the machine - Yes
Cheaper spare parts due to the fact...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.