Recent content by Oliver1975

Try setting your position min to a negative value in your printer.cfg

If you are going AWD then you want speed and therefore a lighter weight toolhead than the SB. I would recommend the Xol which I plan on switching to myself within the next couple of months but there are MANY alternative toolheads out there

I recommend the Eibos Cyclopes which you can get direct from their site. However, you will also need to _keep_ your filament dry. For all of this please check my repo here: https://github.com/oernster/3D-printing-info/blob/main/guides/drying.md

First off, a Voron, Trident or 2.4r2 is perfectly good to meet your needs; as long as you choose a size you desire. Note that the Trident is actually newer which is why they renamed it (partly) from v1 to the voron Trident, so don't think that you're getting a lesser printer than a V2 just...

oh you'll need to emit limits to gcode as well.

First off, check your machine limits and ensure that are equal to or above your speeds/accels. However, I strongly suspect your primary issue is your layer time goal. As an experiment, try setting this to zero; you can calibrate it later.

Based on your question which piqued my interest I took a look at the pico schematic. It appears that there is no port for an SFS v2 so I don't think you can plug it into the pico I'm afraid (though I can be corrected of course). What I'd consider, is maybe investing in a Klipper Expander board...

I'd be surprised if you can extrude ABS at 230C, for me I can't until at least 245-250C and I print at 260-270C

Largely, apart from slicer settings and having a suitable enclosure that can support 40-60C passively heated with ABS or ASA you should be fine. As far as nozzles are concerned you do not need anything special; unless you want to print abrasives of some kind - in which case you want either a...

I strongly suspect you have a problem with your wifi config on your pi. So, to sort that out, you need to shove a wpa_supplicant.conf on your SD card in the root directory of such with correct locale and wifi ssid and password. Follow this guide and I suspect everything will work...

Looks like from your klippy.log file that you've defined almost nothing in your printer.cfg file. Please post your printer.cfg

Right. This took a while of setting up but here ya go, check out this link: https://github.com/oernster/3D-printing-info/tree/main/printers/leviathan-sensorless-config (Feel free to check out the rest of that github repo or star it if you find it useful - it's my personal 3D printing repo which...

Unfortunately there is no documentation anywhere on the planet for this. HOWEVER, I have a friend who a number of people worked with to set it all up only yesterday has just got it all working and tuned. If you want to hit me up on discord (I am #Oliver5000) then I can put you in touch...

This is an intriguing idea and Sandman has done some solid initial research into the topic which I'm sure we all appreciate. From reading the comments above it appears that we need a balance of the features of boop and tap without any of the compromises. I'm not sure if I can personally offer...

Have you pid tuned your heater=extruder?