Recent content by Spice_King

Basically: none. If you want a Trident, buy a kit. You are not going to save enough on the 2 steppers and harvested copper wire to outweigh the costs of self sourcing the rest, plus you just scrapped a working printer for <5% of it's functional components.

It's probably a fiberglass sleeving on the wire. No stripper I've tried did a good job. I borked a Revo Heatercore a while back and redid the thermistor ends by fraying the end enough to make the sleeve loose at the end and bare wire come away from the fiber. Took my crappy/sacrificial side...

Yes, it's Microfit, you want 43025-0400 for it if you want more connector housings. I think the white one is Minifit.

Not Klipper nor Spoolman at least. Klipper has no clue about Spoolman (past there is stuff you can cram into macros for talking to Moonraker about what the current spool is), and Spoolman has no clue about anything in Klipper land. First stop is to check if your slicer and Moonraker are playing...

Simple, the user name and password bit only works for Raspberry PI images, not BTT for the CB1. Defaults is biqu for both.

Colors on the wires are somewhat standardized, red is vcc and black is ground like for normal electronics, the CAN wires are often yellow for high and green for low. Though the 3DO cable has white and green. Realistically, as long as you don't mix up the connections, you are fine. Will...

Basically, buy something like IGUS's Chainflex Control Cable (CF9-05-04) or 3DO's CAN Bus Cable from your local reputable seller. KB3D is out of stock on both right now. You could also buy a replacement cable for the EBB SB units and lop the XT30+2 connector off.

If you recently updated Klipper, this commit is probably why: https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/commit/fd2feff67df65c559cafc8fc5f2fd8601355e81a See https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Changes.html for the changes marked as 20240123

Reasonably speaking, you probably did in the 1A fuse. You can take a look at the board for the Fan's LED, if they even populated it, it should still light up when asked for if it was the fuse. If not, then the transistor is probably dead. Harder to believe, since it is supposedly rated for like...

Yea, if you can't get one or feel you may need more ports on the Pi. If you opt for one of BTT's Manta MCU boards, that would be another reason to not use one. That takes a Pi CM4 module right on to the MCU board, but they don't include Manta board with the LDO kits. The Pi Zero 2W uses the Pi...

To expand on that slightly, you want to configure Tap as a probe, then use the virtual endstop pin it provides for the Z endstop in the stepper config. There is not a need for a real Z endstop like with inductive probes, which are good for figuring out the relative topology of the steel under...

As said before, CAN bridge means it's no longer a serial device, but a CAN one. Once flashed to a firmware running as CANBus bridge, you need to configure it as if it's a CAN Bus device as it no longer emulating a USB serial port but a CAN interface now. You can still see the USB connection with...

They come with the connectors and pins for the board. MicroFit 3.0 for CAN on the EBB boards, the EBB SB boards use XT-30+2 for CAN instead and include a cable for themselves. Other connections use JST variants. The U2C has a MicroFit and I think it's a MiniFit in a 2x2 setup, comes with...

I believe you need to address it as if it's a CAN device, not a serial one. CAN_BRIDGE makes it put up a CAN interface with the MCU being a node on the bus, though only virtually as CAN frames for it do not show up on the actual CAN network...

The LDO documentation points to a modded SB cable cover door with a thermistor mount on the outside of the SB. https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Hardware/blob/master/Stealthburner_Toolhead_PCB/STLs/cable_cover_pcb_with_thermistor.stl I'd say print it (if you don't have it), mount it, then...