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Great! Oh, and as a bonus, I'ma tag you with this: https://docs.vorondesign.com/community/howto/drachenkatze/automating_klipper_mcu_updates.html
You officially have more than one MCU, possibly 3 if the U2C is a klipper firmware CAN bridge, so this will help with updating MCUs and not forgetting...
For the record, the Leviathan does not have the jumper because it does not need it.
Both the USB and the board supply have diodes to prevent back feeding each other, powering via USB or VDD will function correctly and allow the MCU to get 3.3v to start up and be flashed...
https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/blob/Voron2.4/STLs/Gantry/X_Axis/X_Carriage/probe_retainer_bracket.stl
It's only for a inductive probe, you don't need it if you are doing tap.
As far as BTT is concerned it's a feature to implement on the firmware side. In Klipper, the driver just shows up as a temperature probe automatically after being told it's a TMC 2240 there.
I just enabled my Extruder stepper, so the spike is just old data that started to come back in. If I...
WiFi, BT and other forms of RF communication is just a no go in a real time system. The default 250K baud on serial in Klipper, while far less bandwidth than even the oldest WiFi spec (not that Klipper really needs high bandwidth, it's all binary messages), the win here is the far more...
I'll say up front that the way Klipper uses CANBUS is not in any standard protocol, where a whole message in a single CANBUS message, it's just a layer used to ship the Klipper protocol messages, instead of over serial (or USB emulated serial).
1-3: The CANBUS uuid is based off the MCU's...
Temperature, if you want to print faster, you need to melt it faster. and a higher temperature will let you melt more. Try bumping up 10°C to 225°C. The 60w heater core will not help you unless you are seeing spikes to 100% and high averages (like 85%+) during extrusions, which are signs that...
I was given a few meters of the wire when I asked around and found a local piano repair guy. Cool guy, refused payment for it. Think I only needed about a meter or so on my 300 spec v2.4, but extra is always nice to have in the event you mess up or in case of damage.
Basically: none.
If you want a Trident, buy a kit. You are not going to save enough on the 2 steppers and harvested copper wire to outweigh the costs of self sourcing the rest, plus you just scrapped a working printer for <5% of it's functional components.
It's probably a fiberglass sleeving on the wire. No stripper I've tried did a good job. I borked a Revo Heatercore a while back and redid the thermistor ends by fraying the end enough to make the sleeve loose at the end and bare wire come away from the fiber. Took my crappy/sacrificial side...
Not Klipper nor Spoolman at least. Klipper has no clue about Spoolman (past there is stuff you can cram into macros for talking to Moonraker about what the current spool is), and Spoolman has no clue about anything in Klipper land.
First stop is to check if your slicer and Moonraker are playing...
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