Recent content by YAOG

Unfortunately you still need a power connection at each device.

Which is exactly why Nitehawk makes an awful lot of sense. When CANBUS first popped up it made sense to adapt it but with the USB option I see no good reason to go CANBUS today and the Nitehawk kit costs are very reasonable given what is in the box. Sure, it might take another iteration before...

AFAIK the Nighthawk is as you say "real" USB but with a couple differences. The first issue is Nitehawk uses convenient but not USB standard connectors on both ends of the Nitehawk umbilical cord and what is normally 5 volt VCC is instead 24 volts. But as far as the USB port on the PC or R-Pi is...

This is pretty cool. I had considered using drawer pulls with a long bundled cable and fixed post to anchor the cable to on the roll out chassis. But I didn't like adding the cable extension setup so I briefly considered using spring contact connectors but realized this would make live circuit...

As I posted above there is zero, zip, nil, nada, nothing that could possibly preclude access to a Triden inverted electronics bay due to a failure of some sort. Please post whatever hypothetical failure you are imagining and short of a house falling on the printer I am pretty sure I can give you...

BTW, the LDO Night Hawk toolboard uses the RP2040 MCU which I think is about $0.80 each at retail. So the cost for a local MCU controller and the related support chips for virtually anything should be pretty cheap. The high current USB cables will cost more than a populated PCB.

Yes, adding a USB hub or what is in effect a USB hub at the end of the Nitehawk's USB toolhead umbilical would be nice. It sure would make plugging in a device like the pre-packaged Beacon easier. I'm not sure if there is anything else that we could stuff on the toolhead that uses a standalone...

Did you print the replacement parts that are part of the G2?

I would start out by diagnosing the issue the same way I would diagnose a Voron 2.4.xx with a stuck gantry. If the issue is not corrected by rebooting the firmware, rebooting the UI front-end or power cycling the printer's main power supply I would deploy the Mark I fingers to rotate the screws...

I have a space limitation for the machine in my shop. The rocknroll rockers require much more benchtop space than the footprint of the printer. The other issues are the rocknroll rockers puts the plane of the electronics up and down at an uphill angle which makes it awkward to access and see...

Arty, Ignore the naysayers and build your Trident the way you want it. I ordered a LDO Trident 300mm cube and the nice folks at West3D included the inverted electronics mod printed parts at my request NC. The electronics may or may not need to be accessed often but if you are like most of us...

I think when you are transitioning from AB to SB you are moving to the native toolhead for which the G2 and Nitehawk were designed on. You should have no serious issues. I have an LDO Trident rev. C in transit configured by the good folks at West3D with printed parts for an inverted electronics...

I know I'm a bit late but I think you owe yourself a good look at the LDO Nitehawk tool board. Currently configured for SB toolheads the Nitehawk combines the 4-wire umbilical feature of CANBUS with all the usual toolboard connections for everything currently available in a SB toolhead like...

AFAIK the Beacon eddy current sensor uses standard USB port protocol with a non-USB defined connector at the sensor circuit board. The supplies cable has the matching non-standard connector cables directly to a conforming USB Type-A connector at the RPi board USB port. So AFAIK this precludes...

AFAIK canbus is just a control signal protocol and can use copper or FO to move the data signals to and.fro. To get anything done you still need a module to do something with that signal and in the automotive environment this means you will need a local power source, relays and some logic to...