Recent content by YAOG

I can't comment on white lithium grease for linear rails from personal experience but as a grease for precision equipment over the years it has proven to be a poor lubricant for precision instruments unless it is cleaned and replaced often. White lithium grease has only a few things going for...

I started with American cars as a kid. When I started driving in the '70s I bought an old '66 Mustang V8 fastback. But it scared the poop out of me because it had such bad brakes and handled so badly. After brake mods - larger master cylinder, discs in front and larger rear drums, suspension...

I admit to being uninformed about a lot of stuff just ask my kids. Maybe rude was too strong a word choice but it felt that way. But we're all good here in the aither either way. 8^)

Rudeness, I appreciate your recognition of it and calling it out. Thank you. I loved my older E36 M3 for its absolute simplicity relative to the E61 generation technology spaceship. I liked the long roof format practically so much I bought a facelift MB W212/3 estate - also AWD like the 5'er...

I'm very familiar with cars and their electronic systems. One of my hobby cars is a nearly 20 year old E61 BMW which has multiple FO CAN buses because BMW discovered that a single CAN bus is too slow to reliably do everything in real time. BMW even used FO for control of the high-end digital...

This is not the auto industry. This is a computer / technical hobby and the USB standard is ubiquitous and not going anywhere any time soon. There is way more to this than just being a few bucks cheaper and very often cheaper circles back to bite the buyer in the butt and ends up costing more...

Unfortunately you still need a power connection at each device.

Which is exactly why Nitehawk makes an awful lot of sense. When CANBUS first popped up it made sense to adapt it but with the USB option I see no good reason to go CANBUS today and the Nitehawk kit costs are very reasonable given what is in the box. Sure, it might take another iteration before...

AFAIK the Nighthawk is as you say "real" USB but with a couple differences. The first issue is Nitehawk uses convenient but not USB standard connectors on both ends of the Nitehawk umbilical cord and what is normally 5 volt VCC is instead 24 volts. But as far as the USB port on the PC or R-Pi is...

This is pretty cool. I had considered using drawer pulls with a long bundled cable and fixed post to anchor the cable to on the roll out chassis. But I didn't like adding the cable extension setup so I briefly considered using spring contact connectors but realized this would make live circuit...

As I posted above there is zero, zip, nil, nada, nothing that could possibly preclude access to a Triden inverted electronics bay due to a failure of some sort. Please post whatever hypothetical failure you are imagining and short of a house falling on the printer I am pretty sure I can give you...

BTW, the LDO Night Hawk toolboard uses the RP2040 MCU which I think is about $0.80 each at retail. So the cost for a local MCU controller and the related support chips for virtually anything should be pretty cheap. The high current USB cables will cost more than a populated PCB.

Yes, adding a USB hub or what is in effect a USB hub at the end of the Nitehawk's USB toolhead umbilical would be nice. It sure would make plugging in a device like the pre-packaged Beacon easier. I'm not sure if there is anything else that we could stuff on the toolhead that uses a standalone...

Did you print the replacement parts that are part of the G2?

I would start out by diagnosing the issue the same way I would diagnose a Voron 2.4.xx with a stuck gantry. If the issue is not corrected by rebooting the firmware, rebooting the UI front-end or power cycling the printer's main power supply I would deploy the Mark I fingers to rotate the screws...