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I found the SB2040 and the UTOC-1 very easy to set-up and configure.
While you are waiting for your shipment to arrive, you can read about the steps I want through with the exact same hardware combination that you will be using...
I ended up using 15 mm for my printer after discovering that lower values caused false triggers...
Seems like it is something that one has to tune for one's own printer.
Why don't you want to use the MKS-Pi image provided by Makerbase?
When I used the image provided by Makerbase, it was very simple to replace my RPi in my Voron V2r4 printer.
I am assuming that you successfully flashed Klipper on your "board" (What "board" do you have, is it an Octopus?)...
I moved my X endstop switch to the X carriage and connected it to my CAN toolhead board.
I then moved the Y endstop switch to the A motor plate.
No more X and Y cable chains now that I have an umbilical…
Check out the steps I went through here...
I recently started to use a MKS-Pi with Armbian as a replacement backup solution for the Rasberry Pi 4B in my V2.4r2.
It was a seamless transition for me, the only exception being the fact that my BTT TFT50 is not compatible, and that I lost a USB port due to the fact that it does not have...
The "exposed" length of my umbilical for my V2.4r2 300mm is 58 cm. My umbilical is mounted on my toolhead and on the top of the A motor plate.
I would buy double what you think you need so that you have some "play" and to account for some "waste" as you wire up the connectors...
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