Question Thinking of building a Trident 300 for PLA, questions on umbilical

[m00dawg]

Pondering building another Voron, this time a Trident 300. Curious, for PLA, can I just leave the top off? Seems like doing so might help avoid PTFE bunch and might also make it easier to install a CANbus toolhead? I was gonna convert my 2.4 to a CANbus once my Beacon arrives but was thinking I could use those parts for the Trident build first so I don't have to leave my 2.4 out of commision (lately that thing has been printing all day long). I was also gonna look at using Galileo 2 on the Trident with a Revo as that is the setup I use on my 2.4.

Long story is I have a pre-order for an XL, but Teaching Techs video was concerning but also made me realize the XL, for being an open source printer, isn't as tweakable as I thought. On paper I actually like RTOS over running Python on an SBC (Klipper) but in practice,I mean, generally my 2.4 and V0 trounce all my Prusa's (though they do require more maintenance and I still have occasional lifted corners printing parts on my 2.4 that I don't have on my MK3s). The first layer and segmented heated bed are huge features of the XL but kinda the point of Prusas was to print and go and even though I won't be doing 5 tool changers at the get go, I'm wary of fighting with less familiar firmware than Klipper. Seems like if I'm gonna spend time tuning anyway, might as well do that on a Voron which offers incredible quality.

Haven't made up my mind there yet but if I was gonna rock a Voron I think the Trident would be a good in between printer (my 2.4 is a 350) and it could cover everything except basically 1 model where I need the 350mm build area.

 

[claudermilk]

Sure you can! I have the snap clips mod on my Trident, so I can remove all the panels when in PLA mode.

 

[m00dawg]

Nice! I should check that out! I reached out to Fabreeko also to see if maybe LDO was gonna offer a Trident + CAN + G2 sort of kit. Sounds like no but they did mention LDO is working on their own USB based toolhead which seemed really interesting.

 

[DustinSpeed]

Yeah I had to buy a second frame to to it but I have a lift too with slide off top and door on my trident. So there are options. I have all umbilical with 0 chains on any of my tridents. As a bonus lifting is almost certainly going to be lower bed temp versus upper bed. One of my 2.4 is almost 18 degrees off on some parts of the bed. So a IR gun and check the top is the easiest way to check it.

 

[m00dawg]

Hmmm I guess I need to test my 2.4 bed. I do find I don't get the bed adhesion I get with all my Prusa's. Lifting corners in particular. Never a problem on my MK3s but something I've had to wrangle on the 2.4.

 

[DustinSpeed]

Hmmm I guess I need to test my 2.4 bed. I do find I don't get the bed adhesion I get with all my Prusa's. Lifting corners in particular. Never a problem on my MK3s but something I've had to wrangle on the 2.4.

Yeah it's because of the sheer thermal mass of the plates we use.

 

[m00dawg]

Yeah turns out I re-IR-lasered my bed and had to bump it up to 80C to get around the ~67C temps of my Prusas. Since I've done this, I've had _zero_ lifting. And I mean zero, even on prints that were previously troublesome. Super glad you mentioned that! I still use a purple glue + alcohol slurry (same as my Prusa's) but that plus the higher bed temps has completely eliminated lifting, even out to the extreme corners. I've been wrestling that for a long time.

 

[DustinSpeed]

Yeah turns out I re-IR-lasered my bed and had to bump it up to 80C to get around the ~67C temps of my Prusas. Since I've done this, I've had _zero_ lifting. And I mean zero, even on prints that were previously troublesome. Super glad you mentioned that! I still use a purple glue + alcohol slurry (same as my Prusa's) but that plus the higher bed temps has completely eliminated lifting, even out to the extreme corners. I've been wrestling that for a long time.

That is awesome. Correct temps and a clean bed and any print should stick.