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Voron 2.4 dialing in ABS on a new 350mm build

Printer Model
Voron 2.4
Extruder Type
Clockwork 2
Cooling Type
Stealthburner
Hi All,

Happy New Year!

I thought I would throw this one out there before diving too much further down the rabbit hole.

With ABS on my new build (2.4 350mm) I am having some challenges on large flat panels and am wondering where I should start tinkering to try to fix them. I have run through the Ellis guide for bed squish, bed adhesion, extrusion multiplier etc so the printer is actually running quiet well for smaller pieces.

Printing wise I have a challenging environment: Loft, currently 10deg celcius, good airflow (good for fumes, not for heating). Chamber is getting up to 40c max (measured with a separate device inside/top so accurate).

While printing a couple of items to help with the chamber temps [bed fan holders] I noticed it is working well on bed adhesion with all items but the external blanking plate for the top vent in the 2.4 has some artifacts on the top surface - it looks like the top layers were pulling away from the infill. Looking at possible root cause to try to prevent while it is cold (London UK so some months to go). 2.4 is fully enclosed and I have a blanket over it but no option to heat the loft and no option to put it elsewhere so looking at thoughts in this environment.

Printing specs:
Polymaker Polylite ABS in gray
260 hotend
105 bed (actual reads around 95 with an ir gun)
0.95 extrusion multiplier
max volumetric speed set to 10mm3/s (SB E3D Voron 60W/HF brass 0.4mm)
speeds and accel on a conservative end using superslicer.

My guess was this occurred on the largest piece so it was getting up to speed on the longer runs and dumping too much heat with a poor chamber temp but some of you ABS champs may have a good idea at where exactly to look and how to mitigate this issue until I can get chamber temps a little higher i.e have to print stuff to fix stuff :). Other then this issue on the largest item I am quite please with the print quality.

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as a first step to try, maybe slowing it down would be a good idea so the filament has a chance to get heated enough. I don't use your slicer (I use S3D), but I'm guessing 'top solid' is the param here. maybe match first layer speed (30mm/s) and see what that does. So many params is like trying to stand on a ball ;)
Good Luck!
 
Adding bed fans will increase the chamber temp as well as the speed it gets there. Can add a chamber thermistor, or just have the printer wait ~30 minutes before starting the print.


Also possible to add in a forbidden heater to raise chamber temps. (I have the same-ish problem - printer in garage that dwells at ~10-12 *C in winter.)

ABS shrinks more than most filaments, so accounting for that is important. 4 top layers with higher infill helps. As does slowing down the print for bridges and ramping up the cooling.

My hotend is a Mellow Crazy - basically a Dragon UHF. 200mm/s won't outrun the hotend, but that's around the limit for print quality on the outside of the part. (Pretty sure it's cooling limited)

Tuning retraction and Z hop will help with artifacts on the top surface as well.

BTW - I run around 180 for outside walls, 160 for top surface and 220 for non-visible parts on a 2.4 350. 3000 acceleration. Slower for 1st layer though. About 120 and 1800 there.
 
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Thanks for all of the info - much appreciated.
I have installed 3 bed fans (centre, Left and right) and run those up for the last print of smaller items (LED mounts) at 40% but still temp limited in the chamber (max 44c after 4 hours) but ambient temps this last few days has been below 8c in the loft so quite a challenging environment to get the chamber more then 35c over ambient temps.
I will look at the discord thread and see if I cannot give the printer a little more protection as too much heat loss through the panels at the moment.
 
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