Recent content by Andreas

Have you calibrated the extruder steps? This looks like a massive underextrusion. See Ellis guide as already recommended, or do the e steps calibration first.

I'm running the same setup as in the picture on my 2.4. You might lose a bit of height but that was never an issue for me. I bought a stupid expensive robotic cable that is especially made for a lot of movements. I bought a sample of 3 or 4 pieces and stuck with the one I liked most in terms of...

I know the answer comes late, but maybe this helps others. As NoGuru stated, try slowing down the first layer, you might want to increase the extruder temp by a few degrees. Also make sure you have a well adjusted z offset. It may also help to increase the first layer height and width (extruding...

I had the same issue with Extrudr ASA. Tried several settings but didn't succeed with my 350 V2. For that reason I tried FormFutura ApolloX since they market their ASA with a "no warping" claim. It worked out so far for me. So as a last chance you could also try different filament

Depends on your situation I guess. Are you new to 3D printers or Voron? In this case its maybe a good idea to go the easy route first and to upgrade later if necessary. I personally went for including all upgrades I had in mind while building and it was partially annoying jumping between all...

Don't worry, I'm sure it will be useful for others. And btw: when running on 0.7V the motor got too hot for my taste (around 70C if I remember correctly) when running longer prints. So I went back to 0.5V and reduced my slicer settings... I'm also currently not active and will try other...

Thanks for that question; I also have a rapido hotend and was surprised about the low flow numbers. Still not sure if I did sth wrong. I‘m using a bondtech CHT 0.6 nozzle. With ASA and low heat I only made it to 14… When heated up more around 17. Next step was to increase extruder amperage...

Well I think it will work without any problems if someone is in the same situation. I went for the most recent Optotap 2.4.1 and connected it to the HV endstop on the SB2040. I can now use the remaining 5V endstop ports for X and Y. Should work without any problems I guess

I‘m doing sth comparable. New build and going for Tap but in my case with Canbus. I had the first Tap version from last year and I now changed to the most recent Optotap 2.4.1. I‘d recommend this for you since it takes both, 5V and 24V. Gives more options for the connection, also provides easy...

We need some more information I guess. Where did you connect the sensor to the Mainboard, do you use a plain sensor or an Optotap version (if so, which one like "niemand" asked before). What you can always check though is to take the sensor out and use a piece of paper to test if the state...

Has anyone made it work with TAP and hall effect sensors on the SB2040 for homing? Not sure how I should set this up currently

Ok, works now. I checked everything I could beforehand. Replaced both parts of the SB2040 boards. Checked the LED beforehand on the PB0 pin on the Octopus board to confirm the LEDs are working. Checked the voltage on the SB2040 and it was fine. Connected the LED without the hotend (beforehand...

Ah ok, I see. Well I checked the 8 pin connector and everything worked fine before connecting the LEDs. I've setup a new SB2040 yesterday. No shorts between 5V and 24V; Hotend works fine, LEDs not attached. Kind of scared to try a 3rd time now... I measured resistance when power is off: no...

What do you exactly mean? I used the standard pads on the SB2040; Checked the wiring several times, used 2 different LED strips with the same result. I also asked the guys over on the discord: my current guess is, that the origin used to be on the second part of the board and that there was a...

Cheerio my friends, building a 2.4 and still not done. I went for SB, Tap, Rapido hotend and a Fly SB2040 including UTOC board. When I tested the hotend without LED, everything works fine. Hotend heats up, all sensors seem to be working. As soon as I connect the Neopixels to it, my SB2040...