Recent content by bomtarnes

Did you also ask about this on discord? We helped (tried to help, at least) someone there yesterday, but could not find any way to get the board to flash properly, with the conclusion that they may have had a bad flash chip.

1. the board should generally have a github repository with useful info 2. as above. Which board is it anyway? 3. The orbiter project does have a decent website with some interesting background: https://www.orbiterprojects.com/

Whilst you may be able to patch it in firmware/config, having unequal pulleys in a coreXY system can cause all sorts of weirdness. If it were my printer I'd be swapping them to be per the reference design.

If you are building a siboor v0.2 kit this should all have been pre-configured for you. You do need the FLY_GEMINI_V3.cfg file, without it klipper will be unable to work out which pins go to what. I have attached a copy of it in a zip file. That file should live in: /printer_data/config/boards/

On aliexpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008237922249.html Other popular hotends in this format include the Sailfish and TZ-V6.

One or more of your motors is mis-wired. Go through the Stepper Motor Check from the startup guide and then the motor configuration guide later on, and this will get you sorted.

Linneo are the only brand I know of(outside of the premade cables that come with LDO and BTT stuff). Stock levels seem to fluctuate a bit.

Temperatures in the electronics bay can get warm enough from the heat of the bed above, that PLA would quickly deform. Would not recommend.

I would suggest going through this guide https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/voron_v2_gantry_squaring.html as well as watching the video mentioned in that post.

I am concerned from the symptoms you describe that your wire order is not correct. Another contributing factor may be the quality of the solder joints in your pictures. Those joints unfortunately look like they need a lot of improvement to be safe/effective (many will say that soldered joints...

You have a couple of choices. The Toolhead PCB needs to talk to a CAN Bridge/adaptor. In your case, this could be either the Octopus, in CAN bridge mode, or the U2C. I would have a read of this guide - https://canbus.esoterical.online/Getting_Started.html and see which method appeals to you.

Following videos when flashing boards can be quite tricky and error prone. Partially referenced in that video is an earlier version of this website: https://canbus.esoterical.online/Getting_Started.html which I'd strongly recommend following.

Very true. PB1 is valid on a v2 manta: https://github.com/bigtreetech/Manta-M8P/blob/master/V2.0/Hardware/BIGTREETECH%20MANTA%20M8P%20V2.0%20PinOut.png

Besides shiftingtech's spot: PB1 is not a valid thermistor port- it's used for another function on the board already. I'd expect your heatbed thermistor to be plugged into one of the THx ports which are outlined in brown in this image...

I believe your colour order is wrong for these LEDs. Please consider trying this example: https://github.com/tanaes/whopping_Voron_mods/blob/main/LEDs/Rainbow_Barf_Logo_LED/Code/stealthburner_led_effects_barf.cfg