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I cannot comment on their particular quality, I bought some budget ones on ebay once and regretted it dearly. I assume that they are good since I never read about issues with LDO kits.
my first idea was using a defined weight on a non-elastic string/cable hanging on the belt and over the x rail and measure the distance the belt gets pulled forward, this would be easier and without much financial effort. this way an absolute value (for a certain belt type and manufacturer)...
You asked for it, so here's some ghetto engineering;
inb4: I am well aware that this is less precise than measuring the frequency and I am in no way under the illusion that this is remotely scientific.
I still feel it is a better solution for my printer then frequency measuring since I had way...
Maybe this is overkill, but I'm a friend of modding till it breaks.
Has anyone done one or both of these options for a "belted z drive" instead of the calssic leadscrew approach - and can give input on the pros and cons of these?
4:1
https://www.teamfdm.com/files/file/319-v01-belted-z-drive/...
Since there is no reference "sweetspot" frequency provided for the v0.1 (...or to be found by me...?) I adjusted the tension with a spring scale
One side of the scale is fixed to an aluminum extrusion, where the door would be, the other one hooked to the belt(s) for measuring (more equalizing)
...harsh lighting is reality.
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/setting_expectations.html#layer-consistency
https://github.com/Deutherius/Filament-Width-Comp-Experiments/blob/main/README.md#some-updates
I assume that most of my cosmetic issues (V0.1) are related to filament...
I did the same now, the new rail with preload solved it for me, too.
All carriages in the formbot kit seem to have no preload (as it seems) and have play on all relative axis (slide block vs rail).
On x and z the double-mounted rails negate most of it, for x I had to order a new one (even the...
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