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I just started my longest print yet and Klipper pulled the rug 3 hours in, for very good reason:
The other leg of the heater circuit broke in very nearly the same location about 6 months ago (but not that long ago in terms of print time):
It's 20 AWG and it feels like it's PTFE...
Update!
After cleaning out the hot end and reaming it out some, there was plenty of space where the old crimp was. I actually had to close the orifice back up some because the fit in the heat sync is... very tight.
To be safe, I lowered speed and bumped temperature with PETG and:
I...
Womp womp. I've changed nothing but swapping to PETG and got failure much earlier in the print.
I'll pull the hot end apart this weekend and ream out the cold side of the heat break more. I did order a v2 Rapdio, so I I might even bring some heat to this party. I'll be sure to post pictures...
Here you go. It's a lot lower than the rest of the print due to a combination of speed (bridge) and line width (it looks like this might be top surface, which is 100%. Walls and bottom are 125%, infill is 150%).
What went sideways with the heat break on yours? Up until it vibrated itself...
Thanks for the reply.
The first time it happened was on a small/short (under 25 minute) print. I came back to a print that had no top layers. I can't remember if it had bridge fill, but if it did it didn't have very much since I could clearly see the infill in the majority of the part. I didn't...
As you'll hopefully see in the post below, I did my best to figure this out on my own and failed, so I come to all of you for ideas!
My printer is a Voron 2.4r2 with CW2 StealthBurner and a Rapido MK1. I’m printing Polymaker ASA on a spool that hasn’t given me any grief thus far (I last printed...
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