Recent content by kubik

You will have to either get a: USB CAN adapter (5-20$) — U2C, UTOC, Canable, ..., pick your poison newer board which has a CAN header (50$+) I would recommend going the USB option. It takes up a bit more space, but it is much cheaper, for the most part, better documented and so far a bit more...

It would probably be better to make a small extension cable instead of cutting and splicing the original wire :)

Try going into the folder where mainsail/fluidd is downloaded and doing a: git status It should tell you what is the problem. I am not sure how kiauh handles uninstalls, but uninstalling and installing mainsail/fluidd in kiauh could also fix it :)

I think this was a problem when Github was down and your system couldn't retrieve the list of "valid" versions. Have you tried hitting the "Check for updates" button? Also, do not worry, the forum isn't that frequented yet, so the replies might come in a bit slower :)

Nice build, looking forward to seeing how it goes for you! Just beware that using white filament is not recommended due to poor properties of it caused by the material used for the colouring :)

Unless you have the wires sticking out and colliding with the frame at the ends of axes, you can rest it on the belt. The belts are stationary relative to the toolhead, so there is no rubbing even if the cables are touching the belt :)

My guess would be either wrong nozzle setting in the slicer or insufficient part cooling. Try double checking your slicer settings and playing around with the amount of cooling :)

Hi! You should be able to do the Spider -> toolhead board CAN connection with Spider in USB-CAN bridge mode, but you would need to hook up the Spider board over USB and set up the CAN network on your Pi. You can start from here [0] and you should be able to use this guide [1], you just need to...

You probably cannot make broad generalisations here. Most of the boards have not specifically designed for this, so it is questionable how well they would be able to supply power to the Pis, which are notoriously picky about their power supplies and cabling. I personally run the Pis in my...

It should be fairly straightforward. If you have everything set up the same as on your RPi, then it should be enough to copy the config files. If you also want to keep the print stats, you might need to export and import the moonraker database [0]. How are your RPis "starting to crap out on...

Do I have a link [0] for you — a great resource :) [0] https://github.com/morrownr/USB-WiFi/blob/main/home/USB_WiFi_Adapters_that_are_supported_with_Linux_in-kernel_drivers.md

Moonraker already keeps track of the total operating time stuff. If you are using Mainsail, you can find it in the History tab :)

3-wire and 4-wire fans are different in that 3-wire ones generally have the tachometer output on the third pin, but 4-wire ones have an additional PWM control wire, as you mention in your second message. I don't understand the second part of your message. You can check how much current can the...

Could you post your klipper config? A common cause of this is that people have stupidly high microsteps in their config.

Have you tried not negating the pin? The stock config from BTT has it non-negated :) #[heater_fan 4W_FAN0] #pin: EBBCan: PB14 #tachometer_pin: EBBCan: PB15 #tachometer_ppr: 1