Recent content by StevenB

Dragon hf has known issues with pla. If you want good pla prints you will need to use literally any hotend except a dragon hf. The least expensive way to fix and test this is simply get a dragon sf heatbreak and swap it out.

The g2 has it's own anchor chain mount that you use. The ldo one is for clockwork 2

Wagos and a wago mount. There are a lot, but I used this one. https://github.com/kyleisah/Voron-Things/tree/main/WAGO-221%20(5)%20DIN%20Mounts/STLs

Is it the Pi running spoolman going into a low power sleep state? You request data from it, it error but wakes the Pi and by the time the restart happens it's awake and accepting connections?

Ratrig might be a better base for a printer of this size. By default it already goes up to 500x500.

A dragon standard flow is rated about 15 mm3/s flowrate, which is about 6 mm/s extrusion speed. A high flow version is about 35m 3/s which is about 14 mm/s. So a couple questions. What temperature are you extruding at? What version of the dragon are you running

Can you upload your printer.cfg so it can be checked? At a glance though it looks like you renamed your chamber sensor from 'chamber' to 'chamber_temp'. You will need to modify your macros to match, or simply rename it back to 'chamber'

The reason for it being slow is you are setting hardware calibration. Anything faster you start getting into flow rate issues. That's a completely different setting usually slicer. Personally, I do it cold by removing the nozzle in sending a 100 mm through and verifing what the distance is...

What kind of fasteners?

Also, might want to take a look at Dr. Dave's videos to adjust the extruder.

Honestly if I was that worried I'd just get a mains emergency cut off switch found at any woodworking or metalworking supply house and mount it to the bench the printer is on.

Like what kind of feedback? So far it's been great. Easy to setup as it's just another mcu to klipper.

You haven't hooked up the chamber temp sensor. In the LDO kits there is a short, 5-10cm long thermistor that attaches to the toolhead board.

I wouldn't say lucky. A lot of people put in a lot of work to make Voron printers be the high quality printers they are.

If you use a webcam and don't have a USB cable with higher gauge wire you can easily get inder voltage errors. My preference is simply run power from the Octopus 5v pins to the Pi gpio pins with thick enough wire to handle the current.