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Yeah, those "free" shipping offers usually add that cost on the product price.
I wouldn't be surprised if that's an effect of subsidies by the Chinese government: vendors sell things at a loss and their government covers the rest. That's something that has been done before and I believe is...
Welcome to the forum!
First of all: Voron printers are Do-It-Yourself (DIY) printers that follows the spirit of the Reprap project, which was created back in the late 2000s. So you have to keep in mind that a Voron isn't a product, it is a project. That said, as it is true for all DIY printers...
@RocknRolla Answering here the question you made on the announcements section:
Galileo 2 is composed of two parts: the gearbox, which is common for all casing variants, and the case. For the latter you have G2SA (Galileo 2 Standalone, which functions like an Orbit or Sherpa-Mini extruder), G2Z...
It's 330 mm Z height because of the designers' ethos of always trying to minimize the parts you need to change when upgrading. And because the V2.1* used a different way to lift the bed, over the years the print volume lost height because the frame wasn't changed since then.
* The design that...
The "Pro Plus" moniker isn't an official one used by Voron Design. I'm assuming you bought a kit, so in that case this was added by the kit's manufacturer as a form to differentiate themselves from other vendors. The most recent build instructions really are from 2022, there wasn't any updates...
If the Voron Phoenix were already released I'd recommend using it as a base for such a printer. RCF said it'll be a 600x600x550-ish printer using 4 heaters for the bed, which is pretty much what you want (aside the Z height obviously).
Check for bindings in the bearings of the motion system at some positions.
Check if belts are touching something that they shouldn't, if they are riding the bearings/idlers/pulleys at the right position.
Not that I think this is a reason, but how much cooling are you using? By the way, which...
There lies your answer: cloned CHT nozzles does NOT perform to the level of the original thing. In fact, you are not the first one saying that the performance is worse.
For science, put a plain nozzle on your hotend and repeat the tests. Also, increase the temperatures: 190C to 230C is the...
Stands for Ben Levi, the author of that printer. I first saw it on Thingiverse many years ago, it's an open source CoreXY design that is at first look very nicely designed. Problem is that, from what I heard/read from people who built one, it isn't kind with low tolerances cuts on extrusions; it...
It was mainly for safety reasons. The thing is that the BOM SSR is kinda expensive and people at the time (2020) were using Chinese alternatives that were pretty dangerous: many of them are active LOW, when the BOM SSR is active HIGH. If you follow all the usual precautions though, the AC heater...
The original V0 used AC heaters, you can change the branch on the Github repository to have access to the old files, specially the manual. Also, the sourcing guide still list the parts needed for the OG V0.
Another alternative is SuperSlicer, which recently came back to life after an hiatus from the author (due to Real Life Problems™). It needs to catch up some updates from PrusaSlicer, but is a solid alternative, the preferred for many in the Discord server and the one with most content created by...
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