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Hello all, is building a "Tridex 4 PPS-CF" a achievable goal?

Challtaq

New member
Hey,
So far I just build my mk3s+ some 5 years ago which I heavily use ever since.

Fell in love with to idea:
1)IDEX
2) PPS-CF

Still not sure, if 2 printers dedicated for each (IDEX for PETG plus TPU) and one for PPS-CF in particular makes more sense? How hard of a heavy lift will a heatchambered TRIDEX will be an by what cost?

Thanks for giving me a realistic overview
Chally
 
I don't see why not, PPS-CF is within the limits a Voron printer can handle. Just pick a hotend that can go up to 340 or 350C, an abrasion-resistant nozzle and you should be good to go.

Mind that this is just for printing PPS-CF on a Voron. Printing Voron parts out of PPS-CF is uncharted territory and we don't know if the material can resist material creep over time (PETG and most of the Nylons doesn't).
 
Hey thanks for your response.
I do see your point here.

PPS likes about 60 degrees chamber temp, whilst Qidi Plus4 eg. does PPS-setting with temp up to 65°.
Regarding your questionmark:
Polyamide, as it's prone to resist 120° ongoing, I think on that issue i should be fine.

How do you guys commonly print your 3d printed parts used for the next Voron? I'd use my Prusa mk3s+ obviously - though non having any experience yet with ABS and Nylon. I must add, I do have a nice enclosure and venting if needed, but no active chamber heating:
Going for some PA-GF maybe?

Anyway - another concept could be of "handling up the ladder" from PA first then to parts made out of PPS-CF... So, exchanging everything sorta step by step. But I really have doubts yet if PPS-CF is as mechanically resistant as Nylon TBH.
 
Last edited:
Hey thanks for your response.
I do see your point here.

PPS likes about 60 degrees chamber temp, whilst Qidi Plus4 eg. does PPS-setting with temp up to 65°.
Regarding your questionmark:
Polyamide, as it's prone to resist 120° ongoing, I think on that issue i should be fine.

How do you guys commonly print your 3d printed parts used for the next Voron? I'd use my Prusa mk3s+ obviously - though non having any experience yet with ABS and Nylon. I must add, I do have a nice enclosure and venting if needed, but no active chamber heating:
Going for some PA-GF maybe?

Anyway - another concept could be of "handling up the ladder" from PA first then to parts made out of PPS-CF... So, exchanging everything sorta step by step. But I really have doubts yet if PPS-CF is as mechanically resistant as Nylon TBH.
Printing ABS is easy on an enclosed printer, just heatsoak it for some time before start printing and you should be good to go. On an open printer you should provide at least a temporary enclosure for it, the purpose being blocking cold air drafts that will cool your print too fast and induce warping on it. A cardboard box, even a trash bag have been used in the past by members of the community with success, but obviously you have to monitor it closely due the possible hazards. I also recommend printing on a well-ventilated room, ABS is no joke although the levels of VOC/fumes/styrene released in the air by printers is really low, but better safe than sorry.
 
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