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Don't forget the reprap forums : https://reprap.org/forum/
Unfortunately, it's been slowly dying for the last 3 or 4 years.
Many discussions about experimentation, kinematics, electronics, sensors, etc.
I believe I discovered why many (including me...) are complaining about the Voron PZ Probe (Revo Stealthburner Edition). Poor consistency, flaky sensivity, weird presets behaviour.
First potential issue is the Z belts tension. With the tension on the low side - 2.5 using the well known tool by...
You were right, I was having other issues than the crazy long bowden (4x3 of course)
My 2.4/350 reaches 70+ (summer...) and the CW2 extruder was slowly failing under the load and the heat from the motor. Failed after a couple of hundreds hours.
4th time I have to reprint it. First one was...
Sorry for the late answer ! But you already got some.
There's also the Belay by Annex Engineering : It's a one way buffer, requires a extruder and some software.
https://github.com/Annex-Engineering/Belay
It's about extrusion consistency, it has nothing to do with skew correction.
Active buffers exist for two reasons : extrusion consistency and assisted load/unload.
Consistency : compensates for the reverse Bowden friction, that depends on the toolhead position, despite the recommended 3x4 PTFE...
No need for the doom mod for dual panels, fridge door, HV/LV separation and rounded corners !
The main benefit is rigidity.
This is a regular V2.4 with fridge door, dual panels and rounded corners.
Of course it does.
Reason why such devices exist for non multicolor printers.
See Mellow LLL.
I was linked to this device by the Box Turtle developper when I asked if I was the only one the BT was improving print quality.
It's a closed loop. As soon as there's tension on the filament, the...
I installed an upgrade that massively improved print quality on my LDO 2.4/350 : a Box Turtle. The open source equivalent for the Bambu AMS.
Layer consistency is night and day.
This thing simply compensates for the drag in the reverse Bowden. Despite the 3mm ID tubing, the CW2 does no like the 1...
Do *NOT* use a SSR for DC. You will not be able to turn it off, and quickly get a thermal runaway.
SSRs are based on a triac or a pair thyristors. They continue to conduct until the current drops to zero (or close to). In other words until you turn the power off.
AC only !
I use Kluber NBU15 because I have some left after a milling machine spindle rebuild. Barium soap, synthetic, low viscosity. Max temp 130°C, dropping point 220°C. Very easy to apply with a syringe.
Probably overkill. IIRC it was hyped for printer leadscrews like 5-10 years ago, and was available...
This plugin is great, but lacks one feature. At least for me : "independant" dimmable nozzle LEDs, that can be adjusted from Mainsail or Fluidd, using a slider control.
LED_Effect offers "AnalogPin", that controls a group of LEDs. We just need to send some voltage to the analog pin.
Definition...
On the 0.2, the screws were loose...
The problem is elsewhere. Not speaking of the PTFE coating (poor surface finish) ! Looks like a pan (shot a few macros to be sure).
Replaced the nut + AB nut, and stress tested it : z-hop 0.4 mm ; they failed after 40 hours !!! (jam)
Currently testing...
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