Question voron vs bambu

[EricE555]

I have a Voron 2.4R2 300mm that I have used for about 4 years now. After seeing the results coming out of Bambu printers I recently bought a X1C also. I am amazed at the print quality from the Bambu. The fact that I can print on the Bambu at .2 layer height and come out with a print where one cannot see the layer lines is asounding. It looks like an injection molded part.
I have tuned my Voron in every way I know how but the quality doesn't match up with the Bambu. Should it? I mean, is it possible to tune the 2.4r2 to match up with the Bambu? Does anyone have 2.4r2 that matches print for print with the X1C?

p.s. I get that I am going to get a lot of haters by posting on a Voron forum but this is a serious question, not a troll.

 

[NoGuru]

You won't get any haters here.

But, the quality of the printer on a Voron is based on the user who built it. Let me explain.
I have an X1C as well and yes, it just prints amazing out of the box. In fact any issues I have ever had is usually my fault or bed adhesion issues, again, my fault.

The Voron being open source and have such a broad range of upgrades means its up to you to tune it well since every single one is different. I will say that from my Vorons I have had pretty decent parts but not great until I spent a lot of time truly tuning it. What I mean is I went through the Ellis Bible many times, and worked on my input shaping many times and finally got parts that I would consider better then the X1C. But agian, I spent weeks of my free time tuning where as the X1C is pretty good out of box.

I am not home now but I can try and upload some pics of tuned prints that you can't see a single flaw in.
If you want any help tuning post some pics of the issues and we can try and work out where the problem stems from and go from there.

Tuning bible https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/?mwg_rnd=1410272

 

[lord-carlos]

Unless you use something like carbon fiber filament I can't see how any printer can hide 0.2mm layer lines. I can't see how that is physical possible without post processing.

All modern printers these days have similar print quality. I would say even an entry level printer can print similar quality PLA prints as a voron or bambu.
Some are have more fan and thus better for overhangs (stealthburner is quite bad).

But Bambu brings it all together: Tuned and updated profiles, solid hardware, easy to setup, automated calibration.
To get voron to a similar quality you need more fan, some decent slicer profiles, Pressure Advanced for every material you have, klipper resonance compensation.

After 4 years of printing, maybe your nozzle is not good enough any more. They have to be replaced from time to time. Also make sure your belts are the correct tension, and if you change the belts tension you also have to re-do resonance compensation.

 

[EricE555]

You won't get any haters here.

But, the quality of the printer on a Voron is based on the user who built it. Let me explain.
I have an X1C as well and yes, it just prints amazing out of the box. In fact any issues I have ever had is usually my fault or bed adhesion issues, again, my fault.

The Voron being open source and have such a broad range of upgrades means its up to you to tune it well since every single one is different. I will say that from my Vorons I have had pretty decent parts but not great until I spent a lot of time truly tuning it. What I mean is I went through the Ellis Bible many times, and worked on my input shaping many times and finally got parts that I would consider better then the X1C. But agian, I spent weeks of my free time tuning where as the X1C is pretty good out of box.

I am not home now but I can try and upload some pics of tuned prints that you can't see a single flaw in.
If you want any help tuning post some pics of the issues and we can try and work out where the problem stems from and go from there.

Tuning bible https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/?mwg_rnd=1410272

I am retired so, yes, I have the time. One thing I am looking at is how heavy the toolhead is on my Voron vs the X1C. Am I going to have to make a bunch of changes to the 2.4r2 to make it that good?
The relevant parts are: G2E, Stealthburner, Mosquito HE, hardened nozzle, CNC metal XY Gantry joints, XY extrusion backers, ADXL (not permenently attached). I'll try a part I recently printed on the X1C so I can see them side by side. More to come.

 

[Yaaj]

I installed an upgrade that massively improved print quality on my LDO 2.4/350 : a Box Turtle. The open source equivalent for the Bambu AMS.
Layer consistency is night and day.
This thing simply compensates for the drag in the reverse Bowden. Despite the 3mm ID tubing, the CW2 does no like the 1 meter or so. BTW, had to reduce a bit the flow ratio in the slicer.
(I print ABS and ASA only)
Was wondering if I was the only one, and asked on the dedicated Discord : I'm not...

Been using it for 5 months. Serialized it by the end of 2024. Some pieces still are from the open beta.

 

[Billbr]

Given that Voron is not a company, doesn't sell anything, and gives away everything that gets created, its hard to understand haters that do exist. It is just a bunch of people that love to design and build stuff.

 

[NoGuru]

I installed an upgrade that massively improved print quality on my LDO 2.4/350 : a Box Turtle. The open source equivalent for the Bambu AMS.
Layer consistency is night and day.
This thing simply compensates for the drag in the reverse Bowden. Despite the 3mm ID tubing, the CW2 does no like the 1 meter or so. BTW, had to reduce a bit the flow ratio in the slicer.
(I print ABS and ASA only)
Was wondering if I was the only one, and asked on the dedicated Discord : I'm not...

Been using it for 5 months. Serialized it by the end of 2024. Some pieces still are from the open beta.

You are saying a filament changer improved print quality? I think you had an issue that might be masked by the filament changer.

 

[Yaaj]

View attachment 5901

You are saying a filament changer improved print quality? I think you had an issue that might be masked by the filament changer.

Of course it does.
Reason why such devices exist for non multicolor printers.
See Mellow LLL.

I was linked to this device by the Box Turtle developper when I asked if I was the only one the BT was improving print quality.
It's a closed loop. As soon as there's tension on the filament, the secondary extruder pushes some more.

Oh, forgot to say... Such a buffer (stepper based) is natively supported by the AFC Klipper Add On. Tested it. Works fine (with one lane, and no spooler motor)