2.4 Umbilical out exhaust panel. Pros/Cons/Recommendations/Experience

[Smart_ Ostrich_V2.3824]

just a few parts away from doing a bunch of upgrades (mgn12, mgn9 backers, SB, SB2040, TAP, and sensorless homing). So I am considering taking my wires out the exhaust next to the bowden. I've seen picture of great setups. But wonder what the pros and cons are?

 

[NoGuru]

I just briefly had mine setup and almost the same setup as you but I ran the umbilical to the spot where the Z chain connects simply because I don't like the thought of wires on the outside of the printer.
BUT, going out next to the bowden is probably better if you are doing sensor less homing. I have lots of differant cables I tested for the CAN connection and most of Igus ones that are recomended were to stiff for the sensor less and they would prematurely trigger home. What I ended up using was this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B944D6BY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
It was soft enough to run thourgh the Z chain but ridgied enough to stand up in the chamber. If it does end up falling over time I will had a keycard retractor to help it stay up.

Running to the exhaust port it should be in perfect position to stay up without getting snagged. I would add a PG7 connector to assist it.
I am going to add a couple links to nice connectors. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YFQ7DFB?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
PG7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SSCKL...CKLJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[Smart_ Ostrich_V2.3824]

I just briefly had mine setup and almost the same setup as you but I ran the umbilical to the spot where the Z chain connects simply because I don't like the thought of wires on the outside of the printer.
BUT, going out next to the bowden is probably better if you are doing sensor less homing. I have lots of differant cables I tested for the CAN connection and most of Igus ones that are recomended were to stiff for the sensor less and they would prematurely trigger home. What I ended up using was this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B944D6BY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
It was soft enough to run thourgh the Z chain but ridgied enough to stand up in the chamber. If it does end up falling over time I will had a keycard retractor to help it stay up.

Running to the exhaust port it should be in perfect position to stay up without getting snagged. I would add a PG7 connector to assist it.
I am going to add a couple links to nice connectors. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YFQ7DFB?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
PG7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SSCKL...CKLJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I really like the quick connectors. Just added a couple to my order. thanks

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[TobyLies]

just a few parts away from doing a bunch of upgrades (mgn12, mgn9 backers, SB, SB2040, TAP, and sensorless homing). So I am considering taking my wires out the exhaust next to the bowden. I've seen picture of great setups. But wonder what the pros and cons are?

I'm starting my V2R2 build, and I'm also going canbus with TAP. How are you wiring the tap sensor into the canbus board? I'm using the EBB36, and it has a 5 wire "endstop" connector on the board. 1 wire is GND, 1 is +5V, and then 3 others. Is the SB2040 similar?

 

[Smart_ Ostrich_V2.3824]

I'm starting my V2R2 build, and I'm also going canbus with TAP. How are you wiring the tap sensor into the canbus board? I'm using the EBB36, and it has a 5 wire "endstop" connector on the board. 1 wire is GND, 1 is +5V, and then 3 others. Is the SB2040 similar?

My plan (which I haven't fully vetted) is to use the TAP connected to the HV end-stop of the SB2040 is detailed here.

 

[terra]

I just briefly had mine setup and almost the same setup as you but I ran the umbilical to the spot where the Z chain connects simply because I don't like the thought of wires on the outside of the printer.
BUT, going out next to the bowden is probably better if you are doing sensor less homing. I have lots of differant cables I tested for the CAN connection and most of Igus ones that are recomended were to stiff for the sensor less and they would prematurely trigger home. What I ended up using was this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B944D6BY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
It was soft enough to run thourgh the Z chain but ridgied enough to stand up in the chamber. If it does end up falling over time I will had a keycard retractor to help it stay up.

Running to the exhaust port it should be in perfect position to stay up without getting snagged. I would add a PG7 connector to assist it.
I am going to add a couple links to nice connectors. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YFQ7DFB?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
PG7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SSCKL...CKLJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I've since converted to mechanical switches, but I had zero issues running sensorless on my setup with the igus cf77-05-04 (ran that way for a few weeks because of laziness)

 

[NoGuru]

I've since converted to mechanical switches, but I had zero issues running sensorless on my setup with the igus cf77-05-04 (ran that way for a few weeks because of laziness)

Yep, can defiantly be done. I just wanted to share what I experienced. Of course proper tuning will help with senseless homing as well.