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Question As a last resort....

3dCase

Well-known member
I have tried prusaslicer on discord and they are not very helpful. I also tried reddit and again not helpful.
My PLA print suddenly has these missing layer sections at random points on slender protrusions on the top, when print time gets shorter. I tried slowing down the print but in the end it was printing at 17mm/min and still doing it. It also did it on rectangular protrusions, but when I put two different styles on the bed together it printed them fine. I changed several filaments and no difference. It is not height fixed and in one print it may do it only on some of the protrusions.
It is not clogged, it prints everything else perfectly without doing anything to the hotend or nozzle. Also it is random either on two out of the four or three out of the four pillars and at different heights. I do not think it is the machine but I have printed other stuff at that position and heigth and no trouble. It only happens on these slender pillars. I also reduced cooling since I run a cpap and it is known to be capable of too much cooling. But nothing works. I have also tried max cooling and upping the temperature but again no difference. Last was the blue calibration crosses which are 100 mm high. I looked closely when it does this and one layer it prints everything ok and the next layer it seems to not print, or partially print the perimeter while the solid infil is perfect every layer. Also on these crosses it starts exactly there where the infil changes to solid infil every time. But on the other pillars they where completely solid infil. At one point I thought my reverse bowden tube was kinking too much so I fixed it and eventually removed most of it. The filament is now fed through 4 ball bearings and does not get snagged anywhere but it did not change this problem. I am stumped.
Anybody any idea where to try next to get some improvement? PLA at 205 degrees. Fan starts at 20% (on all the time except first 2 layers) and max on 40% except for bridges (bridges fan speed is 50%). if print time is under 60 seconds per layer, enable fan. if print time is under 20 seconds per layer, slow down the speed. It was set to a minimum of 10 and it printed these round pillars on 17. I am lost for the moment as to what to do next.

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Mayor edit!
So I finally experienced heatcreep on the revo micro. After a whole weekend setting everything and its dog to find out why its doing this, it seems the mighty micro has a problem with small layer durations and slowly heat backs up towards the heatsink and finally overwhelmes the thermal management capabilities of the system. Strange it took so long before I saw this happen and that it took me a whole weekend too😳
But I now ordered a phaetus rapido V2 UHF and this wonderful hobby will take a next step upwards 😎
In the end the only thing that worked was to force dwell time from object to object by adding another print on the bed. I suppose you could also reduce speed on non extruding moves, but whatever you do it will do horrible things to print time.
What gave it away in the end was a closeup video of the nozzle while it was doing this. One layer and everything looked fine and the next layer it simply did not extrude the perimeters but the solid infil was ok again. This intermittend stopping of extrusion while the extruder is working is typical of heat creep. Go on too long and you will get a monster clog and the dreaded clicking extruder.
So now we know.
This subject has been solved!
 
Interesting find. I wonder if a fan with more pressure would help?

I like the Rapido UHF but the price and I have to print an entire new longer toolhead to use it.
 
Interesting find. I wonder if a fan with more pressure would help?

I like the Rapido UHF but the price and I have to print an entire new longer toolhead to use it.
It would help a bit to add a fan that is beefier, but the heatsink is tiny and will have a limit you cannot push beyond. That is why I went for overlill rather then struggle with makeshift work arounds 🤣😂
Price is what it is for really good stuff and since I design all my own toolhead stuff, this is not a mayor operation either. I will keep my exact same setup and only redo the toolhead plate to mount this longer hotend to. I put it in my design with nozzle to nozzle so that cartographer, part duct and the extruder all remain in the exact same place.
 
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