Bizzare failures printing parts in abs

[ndisa44]

I'm printing parts to build a voron 2.4, and I'm having some very odd issues. I am printing with an enclosure and heated bed. For some reason the walls on all of my parts are not straight. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this? I'm worried that this will cause problems for assembly. The bottom and top of the walls are larger than the middle. Picture below shows the problem. Thanks for the help!

 

[NoGuru]

WOW, that is bad. So a few things, what printer is this on?
How much cooling are you using?
What speeds are you printing at?

 

[ndisa44]

It's an old Qidi Tech x one 2 with a full metal hotend swap. Hatchbox abs at 225 with the bed at 105. No part cooling, and 60mm/s speeds. Standard settings for printing the voron parts

 

[NoGuru]

225 is super low for ABS. I would not trust it, try a different brand.
ABS requires cooling, so try to add some, even if its only 15% - 20%

 

[ndisa44]

I'm running 225 because that's what looked best on a temp tower. I will give higher temps and a bit of cooling a try.

 

[claudermilk]

225 is nearly PLA temps. That is really low for ABS, I usually rin 240-250. Also see here: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/misconceptions.html#never-use-cooling-for-abs

 

[kubik]

@ndisa44 If by look best you mean that it looked nicely matte, most filaments, unless specifically made to be matte, are shiny, which people like less than the matte colours. If you have regular ABS, it should come out shiny --- if it is coming out matte, your temperature is too low. Similar to others, I too would recommend raising your temps, if you have regular ABS as you are saying

As for the straight walls, have you checked your belts or any play in your motion system? Are the walls always distorted in the same way or does it change from print to print?

 

[ndisa44]

@kubik I picked 225 on the temp tower because it had the least stringing and best overhangs. I'm running 235 now, seems better, same amount of gloss as 225. I tried increments of 5c all the way up to 255 on that same part and there wasn't a ton of difference, but 235 seemed the best. Adding in some light part cooling helped too.