Exploded a FYSETC Spider 2.3 powering up my first ever build...

[Mittnz]

Printer Model

Voron Trident

Extruder Type

Clockwork 2

Cooling Type

Stealthburner

So... I'm currently building a Trident. The physical build is done, wiring is done, was just doing the software config.
I just spent 2 days trying to figure out how to get my Pi to see the FYSETC Spider v2.3 via USB (tried UART) too. Finally resolved that by building the "no bootloader" Klipper firmware, and uploading with the STM32CubeProgrammer to 0x08000000 or whatever. Was able to finally see the Spider from the Pi.

So, I loaded up the sample .cfg created for Voron Trident 300mm builds, and plugged in the stepper drivers (also FYSETC, they came with the board, a whole package deal from AliExpress) and hit the power switch...
The board immediately zapped and arced, burned for a second, smoked, and now looks like this:

https://imgur.com/IZGBtiH

https://imgur.com/TEvSagh

Yesterday while I was flashing firmware and stuff, I removed the drivers and all of the peripherals from the board. So, just had 24v power and USB to it, nothing else, and it was fine. It wasn't until I plugged in the stepper drivers, as well as the rest of the stuff (motors, temp sensors, etc.) that it fried, the second I powered it up.

I self-sourced everything, but I got 99% of it from Voron's sourcing guide, so, no knock-offs or anything (as far as I know.)

I have a BTT Octopus v1.1 on the way, so I'll be trying that next. But, what do you guys think, did I short something? If so, any idea where I should start? The board fried the second I turned it on, so, I wouldn't think that it would be transmitting much power, if any, to anything, at that point. I wired everything according to the Trident Assembly manual, and plugged it all into the board according to the Fysetc Spider v2.3 wiki image, exactly how they suggested (double-checked multiple times). The entire build is to spec, no mods or anything yet. Stealthburner with a Revo Voron nozzle. My power supplies are both genuine Meanwell PSU's, putting out the correct voltage. The board worked fine when plugged in to just power and USB. Also, neither of the 20amp fuses on the board blew, nor did the fuses on the power inlet.

What's the best way to see what fried it, and avoid ruining my replacement board? Thanks!

 

[shiftingtech]

From the damage, I think it's pretty safe to say that 24V (or higher) was delivered directly to the processor, which, yes, would typically indicate a significant wiring error.

Unfortunately, without photos of the actual hookups, it's hard to make any more specific guesses.

 

[Sanity Agathion]

I have seen some damage to board being done by incorrectly intalled stepper drivers, as in, upside down. But that didn't take out the CPU.

Out of curiosity - do you use inductive probe? With or without Bat85?

 

[claudermilk]

If it powered up fine before stepper drivers were installed then fried after they were I wonder if the jumpers for those were misconfigured. It seems there's a lot of ways to do those wrong.

 

[Mittnz]

I have seen some damage to board being done by incorrectly intalled stepper drivers, as in, upside down. But that didn't take out the CPU.

Out of curiosity - do you use inductive probe? With or without Bat85?

Yes, I have the Omron probe (same one from the Voron Trident BOM), hooked up to an LDO Stealthburner toolhead board (the two-piece board, which includes the bat85 diode). I then used the LDO wiring harness (from West3D) to run back to the LDO breakout board, and from there, wired each peripheral to the Spider.

 

[Mittnz]

If it powered up fine before stepper drivers were installed then fried after they were I wonder if the jumpers for those were misconfigured. It seems there's a lot of ways to do those wrong.

Yeah, I put the jumpers here:

https://imgur.com/foS7Ksu

(shown in my photo of the board, also)

I did this according to the Fysetc Spider v2.3 for Trident wiring guide.

 

[zig]

This is interesting. I just upgraded from a 2.2 to a 2.3 board after my 2.2 failed following a year of working fine. Same config, wiring, etc. double checked all the connections. Rebuilt and reinstalled firmware. Mine didn’t fry, but it is running super hot, up to 120C before I could turn it off.

Print jobs run perfectly. But the pay terminate after the mcu gets too hot.

I’ve been trying to figure it out for days, but I can’t find anything I did wrong. I’ve built two Vorons, so I have some experience.

I have tech issue in with Fysetc. We will see if they reply.

I also ordered an Octopus. I’m becoming leery of Fysetc after these two experiences. Always been a fan in the past.

 

[Print3DWorld]

These boards are super touchy to wiring issues, one of the FYSETC kits I got from them had an issue with the solder mask and ultimately died as well. I had to replace the LCD screen and mainboard on that one single kit. This looks like something on the 24v or 3.3/5V converter were an issue. maybe some better photos of your wiring, and close up photos of the front and back traces would give us more hints.... Also did you check that you moved the USB/INPUT voltage jumper back after flashing the firmware?

I had the same issue with every board requiring me to flash the "No bootloader" firmware as well.

Unfortunately this is part of electronics, maybe reach out to FYSETC as I work with them (I am sponsored quite often by them) and mention the board fried on first boot.. they could help you out. I think there is a vendor account here as well.

 

[zig]

I worked on the overheating issue for days. Disconnected all wires except power. Still overheating. No help at all from customer support. Finally threw it in the trash and bought an Octopus. Everything works fine now.

 

[Sanity Agathion]

I worked on the overheating issue for days. Disconnected all wires except power. Still overheating. No help at all from customer support. Finally threw it in the trash and bought an Octopus. Everything works fine now.

Well, I was not expecting that TBH. The board should not be just overheating, unless something is broken there. Glad you solved it in the end, albeit by throwing more money at it.

 

[zig]

Yeah, I expected it was some kind of wiring problem, but it must have been the board. I'm a bit disenchanted with FYSETC. This 2.3 Spider was replacing the 2.2 Spider that failed. And all I got from support was "I'll ask the engineers", then silence. 0 for 3 on that one.

I replaced it with a BTT Octopus 1.1. It was not easy to configure and did some odd things, but in the end I got it going. It mostly works now, except for the display, which is still dead.

I would gladly pay more for higher quality and real customer support, but this doesn't seem to be an option for a Klipper board.

 

[Sandman50]

The display... there is a note in the voron build notes about that. A BTT mainboard and a Fysetc display requires that the plastic holder for the cable be carefully popped off the display board and reversed.

Mini12864 display

Voron Official and Community Documentation

docs.vorondesign.com