Finally, bought a 2.4 r2 KIT

[Jirvan9116]

Figured I'd come say hi, I'll be lurking around I'm sure figuring stuff out. I'm a controls and electrical tech. So I have the background. I'm pretty confident I can put it together and wire it up essay enough. But, I do have a question that has been asked a million times but, I went middle of the line with my kit. I didn't pick the cheapest kit, defiantly not the most expensive. I've read some reviews so far Fysetc is not the perfect kit but better than some. What do you guys think? I'm concerned after all my research I still make a mistake. LoL

 

[NoGuru]

It will be fine, all kits work and some are just better then others. Build what you have and then after its done see where you want to make improvements

 

[thefjordkeeper]

I'm still fine tuning a Fysetc kit and I overall found it to be pretty good. The biggest headaches I had were with the soft fasteners on the TAP carriage and the lack of documentation for the 5" screen and hollow x gantry.

 

[3dCase]

Figured I'd come say hi, I'll be lurking around I'm sure figuring stuff out. I'm a controls and electrical tech. So I have the background. I'm pretty confident I can put it together and wire it up essay enough. But, I do have a question that has been asked a million times but, I went middle of the line with my kit. I didn't pick the cheapest kit, defiantly not the most expensive. I've read some reviews so far Fysetc is not the perfect kit but better than some. What do you guys think? I'm concerned after all my research I still make a mistake. LoL

You will be ok, like @NoGuru said, all work but some are just better. Also some are simply different in components. When it is running you will find things you don't like and will enter the bottomless freefall we call modifications. Modify the thing, it'l be fun they said
BTW, what extruder setup came with the kit? For me this is the biggest question every time. They say something about it, like V6 or Dragon high flow, but they never seem to exactly specify what they use. When you then search for the things they did tell you about before you buy it, you can find many variants from different manufacturers. And this is what creeps me out and is currently stopping me buying my formbot V0.2 kit. Anoys the hell out of me how many clones are floating about these days.

 

[Jirvan9116]

You will be ok, like @NoGuru said, all work but some are just better. Also some are simply different in components. When it is running you will find things you don't like and will enter the bottomless freefall we call modifications. Modify the thing, it'l be fun they said
BTW, what extruder setup came with the kit? For me this is the biggest question every time. They say something about it, like V6 or Dragon high flow, but they never seem to exactly specify what they use. When you then search for the things they did tell you about before you buy it, you can find many variants from different manufacturers. And this is what creeps me out and is currently stopping me buying my formbot V0.2 kit. Anoys the hell out of me how many clones are floating about these days.

It came with some gears, and that's about it. I did the digging. And figured it out with printed parts. I guess it's the clockwork 2 extruder, and the sailfish hot end fits the dragon hotend stl's. From what I read and they were correct. Even though you could get the stl from printables that actually say Sailfish.

 

[3dCase]

It came with some gears, and that's about it. I did the digging. And figured it out with printed parts. I guess it's the clockwork 2 extruder, and the sailfish hot end fits the dragon hotend stl's. From what I read and they were correct. Even though you could get the stl from printables that actually say Sailfish.

Make sure your extruder parts are perfectly printed or you will have trouble with the thing later on. When I got mine second hand it had a clockwork on it and it never worked reliably. When I designed my own toolhead with orbiter and revo micro, it instantly performed many times better. After I took the clockwork to bits I found some printing issues which caused issues with extruder path not lining up straight with the hotend. Motor could bend slightly backwards due to not flush faces and several other print technical issues. Make sure it fits like it says in the voron instructions and if not, check why not and correct it. No point cutting corners on these things.

 

[Jirvan9116]

Ya the first attempt wasn't good. Nothing worked. Second attempt much better. But then again started having trouble. After started doing research find a bunch of threads and different people saying the same thing. Then a random oh I did it and everything was perfect first try.

So instead of fighting it now. I went ahead and bought the orbiter v2.5, Xol tool head kit, with the Ebb36 canbus. Also heard allot of people having issues with 1) making that PCB work with the setup, and 2) just getting it to work properly in the first place.

The only thing I'm concerned about is do I need the USB board along with that. Maybe not exactly what it's called but I hope you know what I'm taking about. I didn't order it. And haven't researched it yet. Will later after work. 12 hr nights killing me.

 

[3dCase]

Ya the first attempt wasn't good. Nothing worked. Second attempt much better. But then again started having trouble. After started doing research find a bunch of threads and different people saying the same thing. Then a random oh I did it and everything was perfect first try.

So instead of fighting it now. I went ahead and bought the orbiter v2.5, Xol tool head kit, with the Ebb36 canbus. Also heard allot of people having issues with 1) making that PCB work with the setup, and 2) just getting it to work properly in the first place.

The only thing I'm concerned about is do I need the USB board along with that. Maybe not exactly what it's called but I hope you know what I'm taking about. I didn't order it. And haven't researched it yet. Will later after work. 12 hr nights killing me.

If you mean the U2C board, it depends if your main control board has a usb to can convertor already built in. For instance the octopus v1.1 has it onboard as standard so you do not need it. But I used the U2C seperate anyway since I read that sometimes its easier when you are troubleshooting.
If you want troublefree canbus setup, check out esoterical canbus guide. If you follow this exactly as it says I guarantee it will work first time. If it doesn’t you most likely missed a check or misunderstood some choices because the guide is bullit proof.

 

[thefjordkeeper]

Ya the first attempt wasn't good. Nothing worked. Second attempt much better. But then again started having trouble. After started doing research find a bunch of threads and different people saying the same thing. Then a random oh I did it and everything was perfect first try.

So instead of fighting it now. I went ahead and bought the orbiter v2.5, Xol tool head kit, with the Ebb36 canbus. Also heard allot of people having issues with 1) making that PCB work with the setup, and 2) just getting it to work properly in the first place.

The only thing I'm concerned about is do I need the USB board along with that. Maybe not exactly what it's called but I hope you know what I'm taking about. I didn't order it. And haven't researched it yet. Will later after work. 12 hr nights killing me.

The Spider H7 works great on CANBUS, just follow Esoterical's guide to the letter.

Did you get a Xol CNC carriage? What are you using for your probe? I have a Cartographer 3D that I'm running as a CANBUS leg, that is still terminating the CANBUS network on the toolhead board (FLY SHT36v3 in my case). It works extremely well and can be had fairly quickly and cheaply in the USA.

 

[Jirvan9116]

If you mean the U2C board, it depends if your main control board has a usb to can convertor already built in. For instance the octopus v1.1 has it onboard as standard so you do not need it. But I used the U2C seperate anyway since I read that sometimes its easier when you are troubleshooting.
If you want troublefree canbus setup, check out esoterical canbus guide. If you follow this exactly as it says I guarantee it will work first time. If it doesn’t you most likely missed a check or misunderstood some choices because the guide is bullit proof.

Yes that's it. I believe so I'm using the spider 3.0 h7 it came with build. I'll be sure to check

 

[3dCase]

Yes that's it. I believe so I'm using the spider 3.0 h7 it came with build. I'll be sure to check

for the low cost of the BTT U2C board I would go with that regardless. Even if the main board has the usb to can bridge on it it will be harder to troubleshoot I reckon.
Please go here https://canbus.esoterical.online/ and read this carefully. Make sure you understand what it all means and research if not. Then you prepare so you have everything you need to do this and you go for it. Follow him to the letter and it will work.

 

[Jirvan9116]

The Spider H7 works great on CANBUS, just follow Esoterical's guide to the letter.

Did you get a Xol CNC carriage? What are you using for your probe? I have a Cartographer 3D that I'm running as a CANBUS leg, that is still terminating the CANBUS network on the toolhead board (FLY SHT36v3 in my case). It works extremely well and can be had fairly quickly and cheaply in the USA.

Yes using the spider 3.0 h7, no didn't get the carriage, but the carriage I do have for the Stealthburner said it'll also support the Xol Tool head. The sb2209 canbus came with the kit. If my research was right. I can use the sb2209 but it's problematic and PCB gets in the way. So I bought the btt sb36 which said it'll work with the spider 3.0 h7. Here's to hoping. I wanted to use a "Eddy" type probe I hadn't decided which one. But my carriage is for clicky which I know takes forever. But I'm used to it from my Qidi q pro 1. So in light of saving a few bucks I stayed with that at the very least. If I decide to switch. I'll get the carriage and I wanted to say the Beacon? I think I'll have to change the carriage out then. Because I don't believe it'll work with the probe. I know the btt sits right behind the hot end in it's own little cubby. Haven't looked the see if beacon is the same yet.

I swear this hobby has totally consumed every bit of time I have left. Between research, looking at all the new gadgets and building this rig. Having a blast. Came from building gaming computers. Thought I'd save money doing this. Ya right lol. But yes I'm fairly new. I haven't got all the names and terms yet. Gimme a few more months I'll get there.

 

[Jirvan9116]

for the low cost of the BTT U2C board I would go with that regardless. Even if the main board has the usb to can bridge on it it will be harder to troubleshoot I reckon.
Please go here https://canbus.esoterical.online/ and read this carefully. Make sure you understand what it all means and research if not. Then you prepare so you have everything you need to do this and you go for it. Follow him to the letter and it will work.

Sounds good I'll do that. Maybe it'll save a headache or 2. I'm getting most my stuff from West 3d right now I'm pretty sure they got one.

 

[3dCase]

Sounds good I'll do that. Maybe it'll save a headache or 2. I'm getting most my stuff from West 3d right now I'm pretty sure they got one.

You will figure things out I am sure. I am a 60+ mechanical engineer and machine designer. Until I got into 3d printing I never even flashed any firmware or wrote my own config. If I can do it so can a gaming computer guy.