LDO Voron 0.1 -> 0.2+

[Vorkosigan]

I have an LDO 0.1 and the original parts were printed with my Ender 3 inside a box (like many other people) and while they are ok, they could be better. I also didn't do a very good job matching a purple filament with the purple extrusions. So I am going to reprint all of the parts. If I am going to be tearing the whole printer down, I figured I should probably go ahead and upgrade to the latest 0.2r1. I also thought it would be good time to add a few quality of life upgrades while I'm at it.

For the upgrade itself, I have the LDO 0.2 Upgrade Kit and the LDO Kirigami bed. I plan on swapping the Dragonfly hotend with the Revo.

I am also planning on trying out CAN so I bought a BTT EBB36 board and the U2C board.

Now onto some questions:
1. I had no problems with the mini afterburner and so I am leaning towards the mini stealthburner. Is there any reason to look at other extruders when mini afterburner was working fine for me? (I have not kept up on what's out there... Orbiter V2, Orbiter V3, BMG Lite. etc?)

2. I could use some chamber lights. What are some good mods to look into for this?

3. I would like to get a camera, but I am unsure which one to get. I would like to have a decent quality picture and video. I am using a Raspberry Pi 3b if that makes a difference.

4. I could also use air filter recommendations or should I just go with Nevermore V6 Micro?

5. What thermistor do I need for chamber temps? (Will also be needing one for my V2.4 as well)

6. What are some good filament runout sensor mods to look at? I have the newest version of the BTT smart filament runout sensor, but I am wondering if that's a bit overkill for my purposes. I just want something for when I run out of filament so that I can change the roll.

7. Are there any decent mounts for a 4.3" touchscreen? I have the BTT PiTFT43 and right now it just sits next to the printer which is not great.

8. Are there any parts that I need to get that are not included in the upgrade kit? I heard something about sequin leds for the mini stealthburner I think? Anything else like that? I think I need wire for CAN?

9. Any other quality of life upgrades I should be considering?

That's what I can think of off the top of my head, but I may have more questions later.

Edit: Crossing out things as I make decisions, but feel free to bring up any of the crossed out items if you have something to add.

 

[Vorkosigan]

10. Pros and cons of an MGN9 rail for X? Edit: Decided to just go for an MGN7 with a higher preload.

Just to be clear, I have at various times searched for the answers to these questions, but I either didn't find any information, didn't find enough information, or ended up with analysis paralysis (which happens to me a lot). So any experiences any of you have with any of the above questions would be greatly helpful and appreciated.

 

[majic79]

Watching - I've just put EBB36 on my V0 build (formbot 0.2r1 kit) and used the U2C board for the BTT Pi the kit comes with - makes the umbilical much easier and the only issue I had was the Revo thermistor connector wasn't quite long enough to reach the board (made a small extension cable up to make that fit esaily). I've got Mini SB on it, but can't comment yet on how good it is. This is going to live in my computer room, perhaps also as a demo machine if I need something a bit more portable (keystone skirt is on the print queue, but I'm only just at the stage of putting on panels, so that needs to come first as I'm pretty much exclusively printing in ABS). For CAN I got some 4 core burglar alarm cable (20AWG/1.5mm sq cross section wire size) and that was fairly easy to install (I'd rather put a slightly thicker guage cable in if I did it again - needed to fold over the wire to get a good drimp connection)

With the hotend moved to the toolhead board, I've got a free ADC capable pin for the thermistor and I was just going to order a generic canned thermistor bead from amazon to be the chamber monitor. Thinking of also setting up an exhaust system in case I need to manage chamber temperatures (PWM from the original hotend output on the Pico board) - maybe add a filter in there as well.

For filament runout I'm using the foot integrated switch, but not likely to need it as I'm always going to be nearby this one. Headless operation as well, so can't comment on the screen. Camera feels optional for me at this stage, but might put something in place (I have a spare MS LifeCam from my previous printer)

 

[Vorkosigan]

majic79, yours definitely sounds similar to mine.

2. https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Accessories-Voltage-WS2812B-Printer/dp/B0C77BXGRZ/
I am thinking these for the lights?

3. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C5D97DRJ/
There seems to be a few different version of these pi cameras. Not sure which one would be best or if there are other camera types I should be looking at. This one says autofocus and a wide angle lens (which I may or may not want). I am assuming it will work with the pi camera mount I saw somewhere.

5. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F3SMRLJ/
Those good for thermistors?

8. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CLB5GW2P/
These are the leds for mini stealthburner?

Amazon.com

Would that be good for canbus wire strain relief?

 

[ChrisA]

I'm currently putting together a V0.2 and thought of most of your questions. Looking at the stock extruder it seems primitive and nopt a precision device. The filiment path is all plastic and there is a LOT of flex in the motor plate and x-carriage. But the Voron goal is to make a printable printer so this is the way it had toi be. If you abandon that goal, then you can have precision CNC parts in the extruder and a meal x-carriage and motor plate.

Much depends on what filament you want to print. TPU or glass filled nylon are different

To ee the Orbiter 2 solves many problems. it is a precision device and now it has a built-in filament sensor and button with a cool LED indicator. It would make changing filament much more pleasant. I like the human interface that is built into the orbiter/sensor combo. The sensor is well-placed for doing filament changes by hand and also for ERCF.

I am familiar with CAN from my work in robotics. You REALLY want "real" CAN bus wire. This wise has the signal conductor twisted. The twist has the effect oif canceling electric feild, it is not just for the causmetic or mechanical effect. Then also the power conductors need to be large enough to handle the heater and motor loads. As it works out the power always needs to be a different size then the signal wires. Standard four conductor cable is poor CAN bus cable.

If I have to improvise a CAN cable, I'd repurpose a USB cable that was rated for charging a Notebook computer. This cable would be flexible, have twsted data conductors, a grounded shield and power conductors sized for perhaps several amps. But do get a USB extended power cable, not an old cord from a mouse.

That said even poot CAN cable is better than the umbilical cable in my Formbot kit. That cable was not designed with any thought at all to what each wire was used for. A competent engineer would have selected each wire based on its purpose and used grounded shields and twisted pair where needed. But to the designer's credit, doing it right would have added a considerable cost.

I think the best place for a display is to mount it on the skirt and low enough so the door can still open. If the display is too tall for that, get a smaller screen. Does anyone use this screen to controll the printer? I think every uses the web browers-based controllers. The screen is more of a status display of for changing filiment

If you must have a larger screen, I think the only logical place for it is above the door attached to the top front extrusion.

 

[majic79]

I'm looking at some simple 24V cob led strips (I got 25m for my trident build, I have some leftover!) I might try and wire them into the PSU directly or see if I can use an output from the MCU somewhere.

Those thermistors would certainly do the job, I'll be looking at something on the UK store (wrong side of the ocean!).

I was looking at the official raspberry pi cameras, I'm sure they released an autofocus cam recently, but yes, that's the format I'm thinking of to keep it all self contained (the lifecam has a fairly standard FOV, and needs to be a bit further away to get a good view). Wide angle FOV should help with the short view distance

 

[Vorkosigan]

I'm currently putting together a V0.2 and thought of most of your questions. Looking at the stock extruder it seems primitive and nopt a precision device. The filiment path is all plastic and there is a LOT of flex in the motor plate and x-carriage. But the Voron goal is to make a printable printer so this is the way it had toi be. If you abandon that goal, then you can have precision CNC parts in the extruder and a meal x-carriage and motor plate.

Much depends on what filament you want to print. TPU or glass filled nylon are different

To ee the Orbiter 2 solves many problems. it is a precision device and now it has a built-in filament sensor and button with a cool LED indicator. It would make changing filament much more pleasant. I like the human interface that is built into the orbiter/sensor combo. The sensor is well-placed for doing filament changes by hand and also for ERCF.

I've been printing mostly abs with a little tpu thrown in. In the past I mostly printed petg. I have not done any of the filled filaments yet because i just haven't had a use case for them. I don't think I am quite at the point where I need the metal parts, but I am still deciding on the extruder itself.

Speaking of filament sensor, somehow I missed that apparently the V0.2r1 has one built in. A basic microswitch in the filament path where the reverse bowden goes through the foot. That should work for me at least for now.

I am familiar with CAN from my work in robotics. You REALLY want "real" CAN bus wire. This wise has the signal conductor twisted. The twist has the effect oif canceling electric feild, it is not just for the causmetic or mechanical effect. Then also the power conductors need to be large enough to handle the heater and motor loads. As it works out the power always needs to be a different size then the signal wires. Standard four conductor cable is poor CAN bus cable.

If I have to improvise a CAN cable, I'd repurpose a USB cable that was rated for charging a Notebook computer. This cable would be flexible, have twsted data conductors, a grounded shield and power conductors sized for perhaps several amps. But do get a USB extended power cable, not an old cord from a mouse.

That said even poot CAN cable is better than the umbilical cable in my Formbot kit. That cable was not designed with any thought at all to what each wire was used for. A competent engineer would have selected each wire based on its purpose and used grounded shields and twisted pair where needed. But to the designer's credit, doing it right would have added a considerable cost.

I found some can cable on fabreeko's site. I'm thinking it should work good. I guess I will find out.

I think the best place for a display is to mount it on the skirt and low enough so the door can still open. If the display is too tall for that, get a smaller screen. Does anyone use this screen to controll the printer? I think every uses the web browers-based controllers. The screen is more of a status display of for changing filiment

If you must have a larger screen, I think the only logical place for it is above the door attached to the top front extrusion.

I actually do use the screen a lot. I got the 4.3" screen and it seems like a good size for the V0, provided I can find a way to mount it that I like. I believe it can be made to work low enough for the doors, but then it's almost flat and I think it sticks out a bit too much.

I have some half formed ideas on how I could mount it, but nothing solid enough for me to cad it up yet.

I'm looking at some simple 24V cob led strips (I got 25m for my trident build, I have some leftover!) I might try and wire them into the PSU directly or see if I can use an output from the MCU somewhere.

Those thermistors would certainly do the job, I'll be looking at something on the UK store (wrong side of the ocean!).

I was looking at the official raspberry pi cameras, I'm sure they released an autofocus cam recently, but yes, that's the format I'm thinking of to keep it all self contained (the lifecam has a fairly standard FOV, and needs to be a bit further away to get a good view). Wide angle FOV should help with the short view distance

I went ahead and ordered those leds. I think they are the ones that keep coming up in my searches and it looks like a straightforward install.

Thermistors also ordered. More than I need, but I can also use one in my 2.4.

Ordered that pi cam as well. I guess I will see how well it works or not. I've got a couple of other printers where I can put it if it doesn't work so well for the V0.

 

[Vorkosigan]

8. Are there any parts that I need to get that are not included in the upgrade kit?

Amazon.com

This is for the bowden tube going through the foot where the switch being used as a filament sensor is. I did not need a 50 pack, but I figure I am all set if I decide to build an ERCF at some point.

Edit: Also needs an MR85 Bearing. It does not appear that these are listed in the sourcing guide.

 

[Vorkosigan]

9. Any other quality of life upgrades I should be considering?

Are there any better panel clips for the V0? I don't think I've looked for those yet.

 

[majic79]

One thing I've done is to install some 200mm DIN rails to mount the electronics. It backfires though, as now the panel doesn't fit over the top of the BTT Pi with the U2C module installed. I'm looking at mounting the rails directly to the frame with some washers to get a few mm extra, or using an alternative bracket for the pi