Mi first klipper build that I do myself

[3dCase]

Hey fellow klipper captains and main_sailors,
I have taken the plunge, because I got so fed up with all the trouble I had, and started my own klipper build. Using a RPI4, Octopus V1.1 and additionally a piggyback TFT50 screen from BTT on the RPI.
After the initial trouble with the startup hanging on some login prompt, I mean on the monitor that displays the RPI OS starting up, I found that I needed to install KlipperScreen as well. Once that was out of the way I got several other errors, off course, but picked them off one by one until finally I have a running RPI with Klipper and without error messages.
I only hung some thermistors I had off the Octopus in order not to get the out of range temperature errors, so that is why the extruder temp is showing high. But that is an easy fix once I hang the real stuff on the MCU.
Well happy with how this is going. I had huge trepidation before starting but it went smooth enough. It helps to have a brother on hand who is a linux wizzard and dreams those codes, but also with the help of the very friendly folk on the klipper discourse I got to where I am now.
The idea is to start my machine with basic umbilical and the cpap fan, and once that is working as it should I will go the one step further and use the canbus to lighten up the umbilical.
Here is hoping everything will be as smooth as it was till now, fingers crossed.
photos did not load up in the right order so you have to puzzle a bit

My desk has been looking like a hacker station for almost a week now, the wife started complaining

 

[NoGuru]

Glad to hear you are diving into the cold water

 

[3dCase]

Glad to hear you are diving into the cold water

With untold wire breakages, lots of obscure klipper remnants from ratos and the very bad part cooling from the first generation voron toolhead, the day finally came that I had enough. There is only so much repairing even a veteran machine engineer wants to do. There was no way I wanted to continue, because I simply love 3d printing too much and this machine was not doing my hobby any favors. When I took the machine's wiring to bits I found another 3 potential wire breakages which I think were on the list of the gremlins to let me repair in the coming weeks, if I had continued.
So I am printerless for the time being, but it already feels better than having one that needs 2 or 3 repairs per week. I like fiddling, but not that much

 

[3dCase]

@NoGuru , or anybody else who knows,
Why is the xy pcb on the voron2.4 wired as it is?
If you measure continuity on the x switch, it looks like it works correctly, do the same on the y switch and it seems it is broken.
I was undoing all the messy stuff in my printer and when I found this I immediately thought the previous owner had done this in a weird way. I did not give it any more thought and reconnected the y switch to become a stand alone NC switch, like I am used to in literally 1000s of other machine situations. If you want to add switch security you can use both outputs and monitor the changes.
But now the x is working but the y pin, pg9, is not registering the change of state of the y switch.
So I am now thinking back to when I rewired it and maybe they connected in some weird series way, which means the Y has to be fed through the x switch somehow before the pin pg9 wants to register the switched state.
Can anybody confirm this?
As soon as I have time I will retry the switch in its original configuration but it is all a bit strange to me as to why they decided to do it this way. For me it goes against convention.

 

[NoGuru]

I could not tell you. I have used Sensorless homing for years.

 

[3dCase]

I could not tell you. I have used Sensorless homing for years

Understood, will see if somebody else knows or just rewire it and test and forget about it.

 

[cdh]

The X and Y can share a ground wire, but they should otherwise be wired separately.

 

[3dCase]

The X and Y can share a ground wire, but they should otherwise be wired separately.

That is not my experience unfortunately. I wired them seperately and it does not work, only the x works. After that I wired them back through the pcb, and it works. I cannot see the lines inside the pcb, its a multilayer, but I figured that the x and y are somehow sharing the input. I could not be bothered to beep it through to find out but now its working, I have decide I am going to use sensorless anyway since these gantry mounted switches prove a pain when you use an umbilical.

 

[3dCase]

I could not tell you. I have used Sensorless homing for years.

me too, 2 days with the umbilical test proves that those gantry mounted switches are a really bad design.