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my first Voron 2.4 300mm build logs

PXD

Member
Eventually, I put order during Double Eleven promotion for my Voron 2.4 kit and start my Voron trip.
I just finished the Frame and Z_Drive building.

Here is the current status.
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and my Delta 3D printer is working hard to print parts......
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I found my extrusion dimension is 19.8*19.8mm instead of 20*20mm while building frame.
I am not sure whether all extrusion are same which are some smaller and have to modify the central rail installation guide keep guides without moving.
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My kit is 300mm, and the assembly manual should be for 250mm.
So there are 11 holes at X rail which is odd number and you can depoly the T-Nuts every other one according to the manual .

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But my rail is for 300mm and there are 14 holes which is even number.
So I decide to deploy T-Nuts from middle to both ends like below and for Y and Z rails.
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When I assembly the Z-Belt Drive, I designed one jig to keep same position of 4 pcs. Pully.
To ensure the 33mm dimension through adjust the M3 screw.

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Dec. 9, 2022 - Print Bed Assembly
1. Megnet Tape Preparation
make sign first using M3 screw
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I use one Belt Hole Puncher to get four holes for screw driver to tighten screws later.
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2. Megnet Tape Apply
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3. Heater Tape Apply and Test the Resistor Value around 75 Ohm to avoid circut short.
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4. Install the Print Bed, Well Done!
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Dec. 14, 2022 - Gantry Assembly
My Y Axis Rails are some different with ones in manual and cannot use two T-Nuts.
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I have to use square nut instead of M5 T-Nut. (Hammerhead Nut should be ok also)
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Well done and wait for installation to frame.
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my Suggestion during installation of A/B belts (SB head).

The manual shows only two Heat Set Insert to be prepared for X-Carriages.
But another two (upper) is better to be done at same time.

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Otherwise, you have to do it on printer like me during SB head installation later.
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It is much difficult to press inserts into the side cooling fans than printed parts.
I heat my soldering iron to 350 C to do it and remove squeezed materials by hobby knife.
Actually I almost give up and change to long screws with nuts.

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I modified the Z Endstop part to avoid the screws and Solderings impact with bottom board.
But I am not sure the height is safe enough after modification which will be verified on later.
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my Control board is FYSETC Spider and mini12864, the instruction at FYSETC wiki give notice as below.

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The location of two resistors is on mini12864, you can check it before installation if you use same configuration as mine.
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Jan. 5, 2023 - Tuning and Learning

1. The Z-Endstop Shaft is some higher and thers is risk, I ordered one new shaft which is shorter (28mm comparing standard 30mm). Now it's safe enough.
Impact when printing first layer.
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Standard shaft 30mm
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Shorter one 28mm
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2. Panels Installed and Print Testing
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3. I got my Serial #
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Have you thought about using the klicky probe also for Z homing? At least for me it provides me with a cleaner offset.
 
Have you thought about using the klicky probe also for Z homing? At least for me it provides me with a cleaner offset.
Hi Christian, I have not tried klicky probe for Z homing since I seldom use manual homing operation.
But I do use macro of "CALIBRATE_Z" in my PRINT_START gcode_macro, it will automaticaly calculate the offset between probe and nozzle and get accuracy first layer height before printing every time. I think this is much helpful to me.
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An important reminder!

I have discovered a danger that needs to be brought to attention. I am using the Klicky automatic height measurement system, and when I was cleaning the print head with a steel brush, like I would with other printers, the steel brush is conductive and short-circuited the two magnets (which are charged) under the Klicky. Therefore, I would like to remind everyone to be careful when using a steel brush and avoid touching the Klicky or simply use a non-conductive material brush.
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