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VORON Design

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my first Voron 2.4 300mm build logs


Eventually, I put order during Double Eleven promotion for my Voron 2.4 kit and start my Voron trip.
I just finished the Frame and Z_Drive building.

Here is the current status.

and my Delta 3D printer is working hard to print parts......
I found my extrusion dimension is 19.8*19.8mm instead of 20*20mm while building frame.
I am not sure whether all extrusion are same which are some smaller and have to modify the central rail installation guide keep guides without moving.

My kit is 300mm, and the assembly manual should be for 250mm.
So there are 11 holes at X rail which is odd number and you can depoly the T-Nuts every other one according to the manual .


But my rail is for 300mm and there are 14 holes which is even number.
So I decide to deploy T-Nuts from middle to both ends like below and for Y and Z rails.
When I assembly the Z-Belt Drive, I designed one jig to keep same position of 4 pcs. Pully.
To ensure the 33mm dimension through adjust the M3 screw.

Dec. 9, 2022 - Print Bed Assembly
1. Megnet Tape Preparation
make sign first using M3 screw
I use one Belt Hole Puncher to get four holes for screw driver to tighten screws later.

2. Megnet Tape Apply

3. Heater Tape Apply and Test the Resistor Value around 75 Ohm to avoid circut short.

4. Install the Print Bed, Well Done!
Dec. 14, 2022 - Gantry Assembly
My Y Axis Rails are some different with ones in manual and cannot use two T-Nuts.

I have to use square nut instead of M5 T-Nut. (Hammerhead Nut should be ok also)

Well done and wait for installation to frame.
my Suggestion during installation of A/B belts (SB head).

The manual shows only two Heat Set Insert to be prepared for X-Carriages.
But another two (upper) is better to be done at same time.


Otherwise, you have to do it on printer like me during SB head installation later.
It is much difficult to press inserts into the side cooling fans than printed parts.
I heat my soldering iron to 350 C to do it and remove squeezed materials by hobby knife.
Actually I almost give up and change to long screws with nuts.

I modified the Z Endstop part to avoid the screws and Solderings impact with bottom board.
But I am not sure the height is safe enough after modification which will be verified on later.
my Control board is FYSETC Spider and mini12864, the instruction at FYSETC wiki give notice as below.


The location of two resistors is on mini12864, you can check it before installation if you use same configuration as mine.
Jan. 5, 2023 - Tuning and Learning

1. The Z-Endstop Shaft is some higher and thers is risk, I ordered one new shaft which is shorter (28mm comparing standard 30mm). Now it's safe enough.
Impact when printing first layer.
Standard shaft 30mm

Shorter one 28mm

2. Panels Installed and Print Testing

3. I got my Serial #
Have you thought about using the klicky probe also for Z homing? At least for me it provides me with a cleaner offset.
Have you thought about using the klicky probe also for Z homing? At least for me it provides me with a cleaner offset.
Hi Christian, I have not tried klicky probe for Z homing since I seldom use manual homing operation.
But I do use macro of "CALIBRATE_Z" in my PRINT_START gcode_macro, it will automaticaly calculate the offset between probe and nozzle and get accuracy first layer height before printing every time. I think this is much helpful to me.
An important reminder!

I have discovered a danger that needs to be brought to attention. I am using the Klicky automatic height measurement system, and when I was cleaning the print head with a steel brush, like I would with other printers, the steel brush is conductive and short-circuited the two magnets (which are charged) under the Klicky. Therefore, I would like to remind everyone to be careful when using a steel brush and avoid touching the Klicky or simply use a non-conductive material brush.