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Question Purchase advice


Hi Forum,

I need your opinion or help.

After my Voron 2.4, I would like to build a Voron 0.2. This time I would like to use a kit. I sourced my 2.4 myself, but unfortunately I don't have the time.

And here comes my first question:

Which kit is best for me?
1. Formbot
2. Fysetc
3. Siboor
4. LDO (although this is almost too expensive for me)

As far as the board is concerned, I'm wavering between BTT SKR Pico with BTT Raspi Clone or BTT Manta M4P with CB2 and TMC 2240. What would you choose and why?

Apart from that, I'm also still deciding which extruder or print head might be suitable. For me, a Phaetus Dragon HF is set as the hotend.
I mainly print ASA and PLA, sometimes PETG and ABS. But I would also like to try out other materials. So it will have to be a multifunctional design.
I generally prioritize print quality over speed, but I still want to be able to print a quick prototype.

Then there are the mods. The first thing I think of is Umbilical vs CANBUS. Which makes more sense? Probe or manual leveling? If Probe, which one?

On my Voron 2.4 I have replaced the motor mount and many parts that are not very often heavily accelerated with CNC milled aluminum parts and built the entire print head and the X axis from SLS printed PA12.
Does this also make sense for the V0.2 and if so which CNC kit can you recommend? Incidentally, I just like the look of the CNC parts.

As far as filters are concerned, I would tend towards Nevermore, as I have had good experiences with my 2.4.

Oh yes, I almost forgot, with my 2.4 I love the fact that it does everything itself in the end. So determining the Z-offset, nozzle cleaning, etc. Just start the print job and that's it.
Does that make sense with a V0.2 and would it even be possible?

I know there are a lot of questions, but maybe someone has a good tip for me. I really like building a Voron but in the end I want to print with it. I don't want to keep changing things and then it doesn't work.

Thank you very much for your opinions.
Buy the best kit you can afford.
Don't add a bunch of things to it. In the end it's a small printer that does not need things like self leveling.
I think you build stock or close to stock and figure out what you like vs don't like, then make your improvements.

Thanks for your assessment.

I also went to my Voron 2.4 with this setting. Build the thing stock and see what you can change or improve. Unfortunately this led to a lot of try and error, a lot of wasted money and time and a lot of parts lying around. I don't want to talk about the many dead ends I sometimes ran into and the time the printer didn't work.

So I thought I'd try it the other way round this time. Lots of reading, information and planning. Then implement it...

Maybe one or two others have a tip. If not, I think I'll go with the Formbot kit including the printed parts, which are quite cheap and should be good, and build a functional printer first.

In my limited experience, I would get the hot end you want to start with. You won't have the full 120 x 120 experience with a toolhead other than the mini SB, I think there is about 3 mm clearance from the head to the front of the enclosure.

I only ever re-level when I change the geometry of the head, (new nozzle, rebuild hotend).

I have one comment on the frame, I have one with MakerbeamXL rails, LDO may be better IMO as you can use slip in nuts later if you need more attachments. But I manage well enough.
I recently finished building my LDO V0.2.
It came with an E3D revo hotend, which so far has been really good.
I printed the Dragon Burner, as it has dual 4010 fans so has a bit better cooling. I also added the Nevermore micro, Orbiter v2 extruder, a klipper expander (for more fan and LED ports), LED matchsticks for additional light, and a Pi camera.
The only other change I made was a light weight x gantry with CNC brackets and a CNC hotend mount.
I am really happy with it.
I am still looking into bringing my Beacon probe over at some point in the future as I miss the bed meshing, even though the bed is so small 😀
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Yeah I have to agree with if you are set on modding from the start, its good as long as you have a solid plan.
I also agree with Simon Eyre, Dragon Burner toolhead is great! And light weight gantry and CNC X carriage is a super good upgrade on a V0.
I can only speak to the LDO kit since that's what I built. It is pricey, but you get what you pay for. All premium parts and LDO includes several really nice mods including the Picobilical umbilical. It includes the SKR Pico board which works well for the small V0.2

I have been printing primarily PLA on this printer so far, and swapped the MiniSB for Dragon Burner and Galileo2SA and am really happy with that swap.

So, umbilical is just part of the V0 design, no mods needed. Probing is not really needed, get your bed leveled and z offset dialed in and it doesn't need changing.

For hot ends, use what you like. I think almost all the common ones are supported. I have Revos in everything and like them, though they are not for high speed/high flow.

please excuse the late response from me. I was a little busy with work...
I think I have made up my mind. It will be the Formbot kit with their print parts. They are supposed to be quite good and the price is very interesting.
In general, I'm going to build the printer from scratch, but with a few minimal changes. I ordered aluminum rails from AliExpress to replace the drop-in nuts. Let's see how well that works. I will also install the Kirigami Bed from Siboor right from the start. It's supposed to be made of sheet steel and a bit stiffer than the aluminum bed from Formbot.
Oh yes, and the fans will be from GDStime from the start.

I'll see how the printer suits me and then make a few changes here and there. I'm already thinking about converting to the Dragon Burner, but I don't yet know which extruder to use. Maybe someone has a tip for me?

Also, the rather rigid umbilical cable is said to cause problems when the lid is closed. I will also have a look at this and possibly convert to CAN.

Thanks again for your help.