searching and not finding

[3dCase]

Does anybody know if there are ready made canbus cables available on the market to a specified length and with connectors already fixed? I am using the BTT ebb36 and the U2C to connect to.
I simply cannot find any ready made cables, anybody got info? Looked on BTT, Amazon, Fabreeko and several other sites and no luck.

 

[bomtarnes]

Linneo are the only brand I know of(outside of the premade cables that come with LDO and BTT stuff). Stock levels seem to fluctuate a bit.

 

[3dCase]

Linneo are the only brand I know of(outside of the premade cables that come with LDO and BTT stuff). Stock levels seem to fluctuate a bit.

Do you have a link for Linneo? Cannot find them and every time it shows Linnet cables in the UK, from them I cannot find Canbus cables.
Fabreeko has run out and 3DO themselves, the makers of the fabreeko cables, don't sell to eastern europe.

 

[5twenty]

Canbus you say? Look at IGUS, excellent cables for Can. https://www.igus.com/product/CF11_D

As far as ready made, I'm not sure, but practice crimping those connectors! I was abysmal at it, but after building so many printers, drones, and other electronics, I can say I'm...better than I was. Almost professional looking and fitting now. Plus, the length on my premade BTT can cables is way too long, I had to shorten it once, and am ready to shorten it again.

 

[3dCase]

Found Igus dealer mear me a few days ago and ordered 3 meter. Ready made there are none that I can find.

 

[5twenty]

You don't need to use plug connectors, if you don't have to. It makes it easier to remove when...I don't know why you'd remove it off the top of my head? If I do any adjusting of mine, and I do have plug connectors because BTT includes them, and they sell them as well, wink wink: https://biqu.equipment/products/bigtreetech-ebb-sb2209-can-v1-0?variant=40273695342690

'Only CAN Cable' option.

Only issue with it, is that it is floppy. You'll need a wire or something stiff to help it keeps it's shape. I used a thin welding rod. Utility markers, sans flag, would do as well if you can get them long enough.

To ensure it is long enough, you could route it out the top-back, along with the PFTE tubing. You could get by with just cable loom around the CAN cable by doing this, as tit would mostly just hang, and with an 'arm' holding it out....

Depending on which IGUS cable you went with, they are somewhat stiff. But not so much so that you wouldn't need some plastic rod to stiffen it, or metal - but metal at the stiffness I had lying around is tough to bend, as it is a bit stiff and not as pliable as something a lot softer. I keep my eye open when I am out and about to find a replacement, and if you have ideas, I'm all ears. My brain doesn't work as well as it used to, at times. Getting old, and all that jazz.

 

[3dCase]

I will be using a 1mm stainless steel welding wire and tie it together with the CPAP hose out to the top rear corner. I don't use the enclosure on mine. I also don't use that bowden tube, I change filament on the fly so that bowden tube is a pain in the neck, as is that enclosure.
Yes I have the connectors, they came with both the canbus as well as the U2C interface. At the top I will design an arm such as that canbus arm you can find on printables. Its just that I do have a lot of bearings and don't want to use the ones that are in that design. That arm already has a support feature for a metal wire too.
BTW, your link to BTT is not the same can wire as I would need on the EBB36 to U2C is some Ampex Micro3 connector. This one is a flat side by side. They use too many different connectors, its a nightmare.
I am familiar with getting old and all that jazz, but with me its the hearing. Handy with that CPAP fan

 

[5twenty]

Yeah, I don't even use the connectors on my U2C, unsure what you have. But most have terminals which I like better; screwing the wire end (or barrel in my case) is way more secure than a molex or ampex connector. To me.

But I'm an old cable splicer.

 

[3dCase]

@5twenty
You should never rely on the connector for strength. There should always be cable strain relief on both ends, in such a way that the cables behind said relief do not move at all. Repetetive movement will always undo your handy work, also on the screw connectors.

 

[5twenty]

Yep, strain relief is good, but I don't like relying on it either. I can still have a freak accident that allows the umbilical to snag on something and rip it apart.

Humans are error-producing machines.

And connector in my instance, which I thought was obvious, was in the electronics bay, not the toolhead. Unless you are putting your U2C on your toolhead, your point is moot-ish.

 

[3dCase]

Hmm, I haven't yet converted my machine and it is now for the first time I see that the U2C board has shitloads of different ways to connect your canbus wire. I assumed it only had the same connector as the EBB36 has.
Wrapping your umbillical even happens to babies in the womb, strain relief won't help
But the strain relief is for other reasons. When the toolhead moves the cable always reacts. This movement will eventually cause cable or connector fatigue, no matter what connection you have. If soldered the cable will break just outside the solder joint, if connected with screw the wire will break just outside the screw joint. if simply pushed in with some connector, it will wriggle and disconnect. Strain relief is not to ensure you don't yank the cable when the imbillical wraps itself, it is to stop repetitive movement from causing metal fatigue. So actually yes, you should always rely on strain relief. It is one of the Industry Best Practises in the car industry and in machine building industry.

 

[5twenty]

Okay. Take care.