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Update for Voron 2.4 which can improve print quality and/or speed

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Dutchronnie

Well-known member
Hello, first I wish a very happy 2025 for everyone.

I was asking myself what can i do to improve the print quality and/or speed of my voron 2.4.
This is the hardware setup i have now:

Voron 2.4 300x300 LDO Kit
Stealthburner CW2
Canbus BTT SB2209 CAN V1.0 (RP2040) + U2C V2.1
Umbilical together with filament tube to back plate.
Chaotic Lab TAP
Phaetus Dragon HF Hotend
Octopus V1.1 Motherboard
Raspberry Pi 4 with dedicated power supply
BTT SFS V2.0 (Filament sensor)
BTT TFT50 v2.1 Touch (Color touchscreen)

I am very happy with it, but it can be better, I also own an Bambulab X1 Carbon, but the voron is not as good and fast as the X1C, I think the Voron must get as least as good as the X1C. the difference between the two is not that big, but i want to try to get the voron better.

I was thinking to upgrade the voro with a Eddy Can or Cartographer, but i don't know if it will upgrade the print quality, maybe the print speed, because the toolhead becomes stiffer. (TAP will be removed)

I hope if somebody can point me in a direction for an upgrade, the upgrade must be a reasonable price, i don't want to invest a lot of money for a little improvement.
Somebody suggestions?

20250101_192117 (2).jpg
 
The pin mod is a pain, but the theory is that instead of the pulley spinning around the threads of a bolt (which isn't perfect), it's spinning around a steel pin that has much better tolerances. I ended up buying a box of 65mm long pins and cutting them myself
 
I have just installed a cartographer and removed the TAP, I hope this mod gives better resonances graphs. Not tested yet because i am still struggling with the bed-mesh.
Because i had to remove the TAP i thought this is the moment to also install the Beefy front idlers but i noticed that when i had them installed that the holes for the z-belts are very small, and that the belts are rubbing against the side of the holes. I removed them for now, maybe i take a look at it later and install them again in combination with new z-idlers
 
How has this modding ended up?
Your machine is nearly like mine now but /i used chaotic lab cnc aluminium parts. Still tuning it now.
I also run cartographer and canbus and the QGL is much faster now. I used a macro to improve rough scanning and then a fine scan which speeds it up a little more.
klipper.discourse.group

Faster QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL Macro

Ever wished QGL took less time? The main problem is that the initial probing height needs to be very tall (10mm-20mm) so that the machine doesn’t crash. But after that first course adjustment the machine is usually close enough to level to allow probing from a much smaller height. The...
klipper.discourse.group klipper.discourse.group
He is super helpfull also.
Still dialing my machine in at the moment but it looks more stable now so when all is set properly I think it can go much faster.
 
Lately, I’ve made the following upgrades to the Voron 2.4: I replaced the TAP with the Cartographer sensor and swapped out the extruder for an Orbiter. These upgrades have definitely helped improve the Voron, but I still can’t get it as fast as the Bambulab X1C. However, I value print quality more, so that’s not a big issue. I’ll also take a look at the faster Quad Entry Level macro—thanks for that!


And i also updated the Idlers

Voron 2.4 juni.jpg
 
Last edited:
Have you done resonance tests ? I am sure that if your build is good and you use a hf pheatus dragon with an orbiter v2, you should easilly match the bambu at dpeed and quality
 
Dutchronnie said:
Yes i did resoance test, i think they look good.

But maybe it are the settings in Orcaslicer that are not good.
View attachment 5989View attachment 5990View attachment 5991
Click to expand...
The y looks good but I think you need to identify what is that second spike in the x. Your input shaper will be most effective if you have only one clear spike. Also your frequencies are under 50 on the y but over 50 on the x. This does not need to be a big problem but it can indicate a belt tension difference.
I think if you address the second spike on the x and check belt tension between A and B motors you will sail past your bambu. What speed is your bambu running at while printing near flawless items? I think it will be somewhere between 150 to 200, any faster and you will loose quality. Does that sound about right?
 
I find this a difficult topic; I’ve spent a lot of time on the belt tension, and I can hardly get it any better. I’m using a tension meter. I’ll take another look at it, but so far I haven’t been able to find what’s causing that second peak in the graph.

The speed on the bambu is close to the 200
 
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