V.01 hotend options

[gjosh97]

Printer Model

V0.1

Extruder Type

Other

Cooling Type

Other

So piecing together my first voron to build (v0.1) and am confused on the hotend. Not really wanting a mosquito and am not sure which hotend to go with. Trying to stay budget friendly any suggestions and info on what y'all are using, or recommend?

 

[Phoenix]

I am rather happy with my dragons (SF&HF)

 

[Takuya]

Yep,
Dragons are a great choice.

 

[Pendorbound]

I’ve used both a Dragon high flow and a Dragonfly in mine. I was hoping the Fly would ooze less than the high flow during preheat, but it doesn’t look like there’s any difference. Both of them print really well at pretty good speeds.

 

[Tekjunke]

I'd like to see some feedback on the Rapido in a 0.1

 

[d3gr0wth]

If you're outside of the USA, Dragon SF is a great affordable option that's compatible with V6-style nozzles. Phaetus Dragonfly is also V6 compatible and not blocked in the USA, so it's a good option if you're in the states. With dragonfly you won't be able to do one-handed nozzle changes, but you can still hit 15mm^3/s print speeds.

 

[vinnycordeiro]

So piecing together my first voron to build (v0.1) and am confused on the hotend. Not really wanting a mosquito and am not sure which hotend to go with. Trying to stay budget friendly any suggestions and info on what y'all are using, or recommend?

Budget friendly would be a V6, but for that you have to:

1. Use the bowden toolhead; and
2. Use the M12 threaded V6 heatsink.

I myself use a Dragon SF on V0.472 and have no complaints at all. You can't buy one already assembled at Aliexpress (f*** you, Slice), but they are still available if you buy directly from Trianglelab.

 

[gjosh97]

Budget friendly would be a V6, but for that you have to:

1. Use the bowden toolhead; and
2. Use the M12 threaded V6 heatsink.

I myself use a Dragon SF on V0.472 and have no complaints at all. You can't buy one already assembled at Aliexpress (f*** you, Slice), but they are still available if you buy directly from Trianglelab.

Have been looking at rapido but matterhackers is now sold out. I want direct drive and around 100 is my budget

 

[TheTechRunner]

Budget friendly would be a V6, but for that you have to:

1. Use the bowden toolhead; and
2. Use the M12 threaded V6 heatsink.

I myself use a Dragon SF on V0.472 and have no complaints at all. You can't buy one already assembled at Aliexpress (f*** you, Slice), but they are still available if you buy directly from Trianglelab.

That's an amazing price!

 

[ZeroBrain]

I'm very happy with my Dragon SF (ST). The only other thing I think I'd put in is a Revo for the convenience of switching nozzles.
But I'm running a 0.5CHT on it now and I am really liking the in-between size.

 

[Andreas]

In any case I'd recommend a high flow nozzle. I built the 0 with no intention to win any speed boat race but after just a couple of tweeks I ran into the limit of my dragon SF

 

[m00dawg]

I've been pretty happy with the Revo system. Would I do it again? I'm not sure. Originally I bought the Revo for my 2.4 build but I'm going to use the Dragon that came with my 0.1 for that I think. My main gripe about Revo is lack of a nickel/copper nozzle. I might their their new Obsidian though I'm not sure. Nozzle/X wasn't something I was a huge fan of - it didn't give me the same surface finish the nickel/copper did.

 

[Urshurak776]

In any case I'd recommend a high flow nozzle. I built the 0 with no intention to win any speed boat race but after just a couple of tweeks I ran into the limit of my dragon SF

Interesting. Several YouTubers have done testing between the two (SF and HF) and found the difference between the two is pretty minimal (maybe 3-4%.). You must be cooking on the speed!

 

[GAMERSWORLD]

I'd like to see some feedback on the Rapido in a 0.1

Best thing I’ve done for speed

Found a cowling online, then redesigned so that I don’t loose as much Z by raising the hotend.

Also made the cowling work for the Orbiter 2 which is way way better then the standard Afterburner!

I am using the UHF version so you do sadly still loose a little Z but I found even with a Voron Dragon my max was 115 Z and with Revo Voron was between 105-110 Z so actually compared haven't lost that much, but have gained so much potential!!

 

[bbro44]

Best thing I’ve done for speed

Found a cowling online, then redesigned so that I don’t loose as much Z by raising the hotend.

Also made the cowling work for the Orbiter 2 which is way way better then the standard Afterburner!

I am using the UHF version so you do sadly still loose a little Z but I found even with a Voron Dragon my max was 115 Z and with Revo Voron was between 105-110 Z so actually compared haven't lost that much, but have gained so much potential!!

Rapido UHF + Orbiter 2 sounds like a great combo. What fans? Also what kinds of speeds do you usually run?

 

[bbro44]

Have been looking at rapido but matterhackers is now sold out. I want direct drive and around 100 is my budget

Trianglelabs has it instock if you are willing to wait. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803509299998.html

 

[wmattias]

Budget friendly would be a V6, but for that you have to:

1. Use the bowden toolhead; and
2. Use the M12 threaded V6 heatsink.

I myself use a Dragon SF on V0.472 and have no complaints at all. You can't buy one already assembled at Aliexpress (f*** you, Slice), but they are still available if you buy directly from Trianglelab.

I'm using a Threaded v6 with the Orbiter v2.0 - great Direct Drive combo IMHO. You'll need a custom toolhead cowling though (check out the Mini-Aftersherpa Project). I can also post the one I used (Fusion 360 hack of the Mini-Aftersherpa) if someone wants it.

With the pancake motor that comes with the newer kits you could also do Threaded v6 + Sherpa Mini.
However, the extruder motor sits higher up in that configuration. I felt it would be more unstable so I went out and bought the Orbiter instead. (The Orbiter places the motor further down and resting on the cowling).

 

[T-rav]

I’ve used both a Dragon high flow and a Dragonfly in mine. I was hoping the Fly would ooze less than the high flow during preheat, but it doesn’t look like there’s any difference. Both of them print really well at pretty good speeds.

Have you tried only preheating to a temp below where it oozes and then just before the print starts, to complete the heat up to print temp?

 

[Pendorbound]

Have you tried only preheating to a temp below where it oozes and then just before the print starts, to complete the heat up to print temp?

I have, but I also use a nozzle tip probe in my v0. It seems like the lesser evil is heating up the hot end enough that any cling-on’s melt so they don’t affect the the nozzle offset when it probes.

 

[LoadMaster7]

I have, but I also use a nozzle tip probe in my v0. It seems like the lesser evil is heating up the hot end enough that any cling-on’s melt so they don’t affect the the nozzle offset when it probes.

I could be wrong, but believe nozzle oozing has a lot to do with filament moisture content. Here in Florida, the humidity level is typically high. I have a few of the heated filament boxes I use to help keep the filament dry during prints.

On my Voron 2.4 R2, I have been preheating both bed and hotend. I clean off any ooze before starting the print. Even with doing this, it sometimes will still have a little hanger, but I haven't found it affecting the Z probe.