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Your favorite mods?

boop4198

Member
What are your favorite mods for the trident?

I've watched a lot of Steve's streams lately and I just want to build a trident now.
I have ripped my 2.4 apart so many times because I have added mods and whatnot. But thats something I really want to avoid this time. I want to plan everything and then (hopefully) just build it once and keep it running.
 
As is often suggested: build mostly stock first and get it running then mod it.
My favorite (and soon to be replaced) mod has to be Klicky Probe. Some ease of build mods I built in was hartk's Sexbolt Z endstop pin and XY endstop PCB. I built with 695 bearing idlers in place of the toothed idlers per Nero's suggestion--they look new after >1000 hours of printing. I added Logan's Bowden tube guide which is a simple & effective one. I added an OV5648 webcam using the Angry Cam mount. To provide light for that I added NeoPixel strips to the left & right top extrusions using eddie's modular clips. I added jd's RefillPlease filament runout--which works! I also swapped the filament holder for one using skateboard bearings from ahough86; I remixed the mount to put it back in the stock location on the rear vertical extrusion because of the next mod. That being the snap clips from richardjm for the panels; those make it so easy to remove & mount the panels for working on the printer or swapping to filament not needing raised chamber temps.
That should keep you busy for a while. ;)
 
I built with 695 bearing idlers in place of the toothed idlers per Nero's suggestion--they look new after >1000 hours of printing.
When did he say this and why would you switch them out? The toothed idlers are purposefully floating to help with misalignment, seems that 695 idlers would counteract that.
 
The toothed idlers have very small bearings and the 695 idlers have less-small bearings, which contributes to smoother operation and longer life. There is certainly a minor concern that the 695 cannot float. I have made the switch to all 695's myself.
 
When did he say this and why would you switch them out? The toothed idlers are purposefully floating to help with misalignment, seems that 695 idlers would counteract that.
Several times over his streams. Granted, there's hours upon hours to sift through, but he's made the point many times.

The toothed idlers have very small bearings and the 695 idlers have less-small bearings, which contributes to smoother operation and longer life. There is certainly a minor concern that the 695 cannot float. I have made the switch to all 695's myself.
...and this is why. I recall at least once he held a toothed idler and a 695 bearing up to the camera to display the difference. The bearing stak floats just like the toothed idler.

It seemed a reasonable suggestion, so I simply added some more bearings to my order and omitted the idlers (I self-sourced before kits became prevalent). As I mentioned, I recently inspected them after about 1000 hours of print time and they look like new. A little grunge to clean off, but that's it. An additional observation I made while going over the printer is my belts are still nice and centered and there is zero fraying of the edges--they look almost new.
 
Annex Engineering panel clips are the bomb. Tool-free, hardware-free, nothing stays on the frame so it can sit flat on that side if needed.

Removable Doors hinges are great as well.

Logan Fraser has several awesome mods. Inverted Electronics is great for Trident, no need to ever turn it upside down again! And the Horseshoe spool holder that fits in 300 or 350 sized Tridents lets you move it right up against the wall in the back.
 
Logan Fraser has several awesome mods. Inverted Electronics is great for Trident, no need to ever turn it upside down again! And the Horseshoe spool holder that fits in 300 or 350 sized Tridents lets you move it right up against the wall in the back.

I did the Inverted Electronics and really like it. But I had issues with the horseshoe spool holder and it not rolling smoothly enough. Even with it rolling fairly easily with no filament in the tubing. It seems any resistance at the spool really compounds the amount of resistance in the tubing from it rubbing more.
 
I'd say my favourites are a toolhead PCB, XY endstop PCB, Nevermore, and VEFACH. Oh yeah, and that PTFE Tube guide (for the reverse bowden tube), that thing is so handy!
 
I did the Inverted Electronics and really like it. But I had issues with the horseshoe spool holder and it not rolling smoothly enough. Even with it rolling fairly easily with no filament in the tubing. It seems any resistance at the spool really compounds the amount of resistance in the tubing from it rubbing more.
When I first built my Trident I was using 2.5mm i.d. PTFE tubing from the spool to the tool head. I swapped that for 3mm i.d. tubing after installing the Horseshoe and filament runs much more smoothly!
 
I did the trident internal spool holder as it seemed more rigid than the horseshoe to me (more complicated also) and it works fine till now (couple hundred hours). I do like how the horseshoe looks like so I might give it a try also.
 
Klicky Probe is my absolute favorite. Daylight sticks are also pretty spiffy. Fans under the bed to help with chamber temps. Chamber and frame thermistors. Filament sensor of some sort. Klipper screen. There are MANY more, but those are the ones that I particularly like.
 
I did the trident internal spool holder as it seemed more rigid than the horseshoe to me (more complicated also) and it works fine till now (couple hundred hours). I do like how the horseshoe looks like so I might give it a try also.
I replaced the horseshoe holder with the internal holder. Definite improvement. The horseshoe holder looks cool but was a pain to use and not reliable enough.
 
I made a totally useless and completely aesthetic mod. I posted it a few days back. It's my favorite.

 
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