Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members!
This is kind of a guess, but do you have the definitions for the thermistor in the config file? If I understand it correctly, you need to define the thermistor characteristics before you can use it.
LDO thermistor code:
[thermistor CMFB103F3950FANT]
temperature1: 0.0
resistance1: 32116.0...
It's not just about the heat resistance of the material, it's about the mechanical strength. Tensile strength, shear strength, and the rigidity of the fastener also have to be considered. Even making a screw from the expensive PEEK only gets you 25,000psi tensile strength, which is a far cry...
I don't remember if the device ID changes when flashing new firmware, but have you tried running lsusb to make sure the canbus board still has the same ID?
You most likely have to update/rebuild the firmware for the canbus setup like you did with the manta.
It's not every klipper update that requires rebuilding the firmware of your MCU's, but occasionally you will need to when something significant changes. Typically speaking, if there isn't some...
If it is indeed the pulley/bearing stack that is making the noise, the only real fix is to replace the bearings. They are cheap and it's easy to replace them. You should probably cheap your stepper motor as well when you move the belts out of the way.
I can't verify since I'm not at home, but I would imagine the low frequency is due to the Pi not doing anything requiring higher clock speeds. No need to have high clock speeds and power consumption if it's just sitting idle.
I'm really liking this build. I gotta say, if you had mentioned you were aiming for a bed-flinger/Switchwire-like custom build, I would have had a much more positive outlook on the build, haha.
I'm excited to see how this progresses!
I'm not exactly sure what you're trying to print at that size, or the budget you're working with, but making a printer that big from scratch is going to be an expensive trial and error exercise in frustration. It can be fun to design and modify your printer, but it is absolutely frustrating to...
I can't speak for what manual your formbot kit came with or where you saw the incorrect wiring, but the official manual on github has the correct motor wiring on page 192 (and bed wiring starts on page 184). I'd recommend referencing the manual and files on the official github so you have the...
Page 18 of 27 will show you the power config for your board. Motor Power can be powered separately if you were going to run a higher voltage to them, but I'd image you're just running the normal 24v to them. You just need to make sure you have power wired to "motor power" as well as "power".
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.