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There is one on the mods site https://mods.vorondesign.com/detail/2fZa8rooutB5ZV3Rcz9w
But I haven't tested it. I think most people buy a chain for the builds.
Another small assembly today. sStill haven't all parts sourced yet and waiting for some good deals :D
and teached my son something useful xD The second one he was already able to put it together by himself, so proud.
After the Hotend on the Kobra started to make trouble, I used the chance to switch to an all metal hotend. The stock hotend, cooling fan and duct are very weak
When I disasembled the toolhead I found a 4010 fan and a 42x42 stepper motor.
Thr Afterburner is actually yet the only hotend design I...
Thank you.
Good point with the Klicky Dock Position. Have you just removed the endstop switches? Just a thought without ever trying sensorless homeing, maybe it would help to replace the endstop switches with a solid block, where the toolhead can "ram" into which is maybe a more precise...
I'll have a look into sensorless homing. Indeed would it be nice to reduce the endstops. Since I replaced the Z-Endstop with Klicky everything already got easier. If you got a profen link or guide for the BTT Octopus I wouldn't mind if you post it here :D
TAP and a stealthburner will be...
After being in the third month of the 3D Printiong Hobby and building my first Voron sucessfully (https://forum.vorondesign.com/threads/250x250-no-kit-self-sourced-voron-2-4.204/) I learned so much and it was so much fun, I decieded to build myself another V2.4. Since I got the Kobra (220x220)...
There is a spreadsheet in the documentation page linked that helped me to prioritize the printing https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1njgHapSZLiQHobrEVkeuAuhhDsXzFOJOiIpvfVFeGxQ/edit?usp=sharing
I did a cheap version of this an placed just a thin sheet with the size of the bed in under the thumb screws. That alone makes a huge te mm p difference.
Post in thread '250x250 No Kit/Self Sourced Voron 2.4' https://forum.vorondesign.com/threads/250x250-no-kit-self-sourced-voron-2-4.204/post-1838
Interesting, probably will give this mod a try. I hadn't any issue with the Dragon HF so far, but only printed ABS and PETG yet. I probably haven't used the whole potential on speed so I get away with temps around 230 to 240
I use a stored mesh as default, works great so far. Just make sure you don't have a mesh loaded when you are doing the QGL. I wrote a custom macro the clears the mesh, does the QGL and then reload the mesh. Haven't upadted the mesh in the last two weeks and the Z-Offset is still constant every...
Have you checked this message of your Log-File?
Transition to shutdown state: MCU 'mcu' shutdown: Timer too close
This often indicates the host computer is overloaded. Check
for other processes consuming excessive CPU time, high swap
usage, disk errors, overheating, unstable voltage, or
similar...
Sounds like a broken motor. But to double check, I would disengange the motor from the Z-Drive and check if the Z-Drive moves without resitance. Bearings also can break.
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