Recent content by jetcat

Yes, I understand your explanation but you realize the ridged joints being sold have ZERO flexability. All 4 Z motors would be locked solid together making a qgl meaningless. At least that's how I'm seeing it unless that's the whole idea. One thing, it would eliminate the rear grantry droop...

Yes, I get there is advantages to the gantry being ridged but if the bed isn't perfectly parallel to the gantry, how do you adjust. I have spherical bearings and low profile Z joints made out of PC-GF but I can also do a qgl without bending anything. Just curious if anyone has any experience...

Trying to figure out in my head how this works. QGL by bending the extrusions? https://vitalii3d.com/products/rigid-fixed-z-joints-for-voron

Don't ask me, I'm a bad influence... I have two V2.4 300's and I just finished a self sourced V2.4 350 last week.

https://github.com/3DPrintDemon/Demon_Klipper_Essentials_Unified

I just spliced it to make it longer. Had to lengthen the TC wire as well. For the heater I used 20 ga wire. I had heater wire in my stash but silicone should also be fine. Had to do this on all 3 of my Stealthburners with SB2240s in them.

So far it looks good! I measured <700 grams of peak pressure and there was no issue with the glass build plate. Also measured the start-up voltage with my installation and it was < 30V ptp with the 2.2 ohm series resistor. I use Beldweld adhesive and a hot probe may make a dimple in the coating...

Thanks for your replies! My FYSETC kit arrived yesterday so I'll post the results when it's operational. I see FYSETC added a 2.2 ohm resistor in series with the 24v input line included with the kit. Not sure what the resistor's composition is but it looks like a 1/2W film type. My original plan...

Would a glass build plate survive the "pounding" from using the Tap mod?