Recent content by mggevaer

The EBB36's have a jumper that you need to install if you want to use a PT-1000. This is what their web page says: 'Users can select the thermistor's pull-up resistor values through a jumper wire, so as to support PT1000 (2.2K pull-up resistors), which makes it convenient for DIY.' Not sure if...

Heeyyy, that's some pretty great advice, did not now Geeetech was offering those. Are there any existing mods out there for these alternative beds to mount them on a Voron? I haven't come across those yet. (sorry for going off topic)

That's a good point. Seems like more torque can be better, but not always needed.

That's my question. If you keep upping torque you will eventually just start grinding the filament, but is there a point before that where more torque is no longer better? I'm currently running a Moons Nema14x17.4 mm, and it has a holding torque of 0.115 mNm, they also have a NEMA14x20.2...

I'm curious about your comment regarding the bed. I've been looking into this, since one of those Prusa style PCB's should be cheaper, make the printer lighter, and get rid of the risk of the heater pad falling off. With the disadvantage of warping on the larger voron models probably. But the...

There are some advanced printers out there such as the VZBot that have ditched multiple z-motors, running a single z-motor that connects 3 lead screws using a belt. According to him it allows him to run the printer without needing a probe. This does start to lead to significant cost savings if...

Hey @jovdvyver, what made the dragon hotend the worst option?

I just had a dragon hotend clog in the heatbreak to the point of it not being fixable and I'm now doubting if it's all worth it over a v6 hotend, considering the cost and slightly more difficult tuning, and apparently issues with PLA printing. I thought maybe it's all down to not having a...

Sounds reaonable, but do now that you will easily hit the limits of the SF hotend with the movement speed of the voron. You can give CHT nozzles a try also of course.

I don't have any experience with the Fysetc myself. What I can say is that for Formbot: - They have recently updated their v2.4 kit with a bunch of improvements such as bigger screen, tap, filament sensor, ... It seems likely that they will also do this for their trident kits. - You can mention...

Hi all, I'm really happy with my Voron V2.4 and now trident, but I'm on a quest for efficiency, reliability and simplicity. As part of this, I'm looking into replacing the stealthburner with something a bit lighter, and preferably less complicated. This means moving from stealthburner to...

Hmm, your point being that having to up the motor current shouldn't be required if there's not something else preventing a good flow. I see your point. My hotend fan is already a 24V one, included with my Formbot kit, so I think that should be strong enough. I did a check of how hot the...

I was able to do a bunch on investigation for what my issues might have been. A great debug step was to take a video of the back of the stealthburner while extruding and it was skipping. This showed the motor itself skipping steps, which meant it wasn't down to gear meshing or anything like...

@Sanity Agathion That's what I thought also, but when looking at the center of my EM square's they look great. If I drop down from 0.99(used in image) to 0.98, I can spot small gaps between some of the lines in the center of my EM cubes. I was able to improve my small top surfaces by quite a...

I'm also getting really bad surface results, but only on small top surfaces. Thing is, they look way better on my good 'ol Prusa MK3S, so I know it should be possible to also get there with my Voron. I did my EM, and PA calibration, but top surfaces still look bad with ABS. But almost all...