Recent content by Oberon

I've used ColorFabb Varioshore recently with great success. It needs a very different printing profile as flowrate is controlled not only by the extruder but also the temperature and the time the filament spends in the hotend so pressure advance and retractions are absolutely useless and varying...

Thanks for updating your post with the solution. I did have the same issue when upgrading, it's not a design flaw it's just that it's stiffer and more constrained than the SB or even AB mounting which I was used to.

It's quite logical that you'd have lower max accel, it adds 50mm of MGN9 rail and a carrier on the toolhead as well as quite a lot of screws. More weight = less accel. I don't have the values on hand but I did a before and after ADXL measurement and it did show lower values, although not...

https://www.ia.omron.com/product/item/1924/ Although not explicitly stated the sensing is done from the center. From the Dimension tab, sides are dimensioned at 17mm so you want to add 8.5mm to a measurement made from the side of the probe. If using another probe, look for the TDS on the...

Oh yes it was missing a zero in there :p Also just wanted to say I've been using Ellis' profiles for a little while and thery're great on my 2.4, so it's definitely not an issue with his work.

Inductive work better than a BL Touch so there's really no reason to replace it with a flimsy mechanical device that will be rattled around at 10k accel. It's also inherently more sensitive to heat just because of the design : the probe itself is a long narrow stick of plastic that will expand...

Do we agree that all corners have this issue even though it's only on the trailing edge ? Just to rule out any mechanical issue that would be axis specific. It's puzzling that with PA values like that you get bulging. 0.02 is low and personally my ABS/ASA profiles hover around 0.035-0.045...

I have not specifically coated ABS FDM parts with such anti-UV sprays as part of my 3D printing hobby, but I have used hobby-grade products like these in a professional setting for their UV resistant qualities and it worked really well. I suppose from a UV degradation standpoint it would work...

@NoGuru I agree that it's a stretch but looking at the photos in the OP is looks like the corners were bulging up quite bad thus my speculative guess... it's just something worth exploring.

Cooling can cause layer shift if the print is warping up and the hotend hits it during a travel move. Most of the time it detaches the print but if adhesion is fly / it's a big print it can definitely happen.

Have you cleaned your surface with soap and water ? IPA and other alcohol tend to smear greases instead of removing them. Are you bed mesh leveling before each print ? Have you done a leveling test following Elli's guide ? Maybe you just have leveling issues outside of the center of the bed...

As said this is not related to the brand, it's an ABS issue. I'm using Fillamentum ASA which I find very good and I think it's available through matterhacker but it's quite expensive... here in Europe it's half the price. I think Polymaker makes ASA as well and it's cheaper than Fillamentum on...

Tried their Refill PLA (not PLA+). ⚠️ does not fit Masterspool design Why did you do this eSun ? This spool ships on cardboard roll that you cannot remove (the filament is wound too tight on the cardboard roll), which makes is unusable without buying eSUN's proprietary reusable spool. Bought...

What has been your experience with printing both for and on your voron. Do you like the color selection? Does it print well? Any special considerations? Is it worth the price?

I've made my 2.4 in Fillamentum ASA in early 2020 and kept using that material ever since. Very good adhesion on my powder-coated PEI plate. My understanding is that it is less available / more expensive on the other side of the pond but here in western Europe it's among the cheaper ASA brands...